I just have a problem with assuming a stock isn't bedded properly. I believe if it isn't broke don't fix it. Even Mr McMillian said 'that a clue to whether a stock should be bedded is whether the rifle would shoot 1 MOA groups'. You can do what you want I'm going to shoot mine first.

Why would you assume any are? Remington, Savage, TC, Ruger bed theirs? Winchester is the only one that makes a cursory attempt at it.

You've obviously never done it hence you don't recommend it nor understand it. Next up will be why not to bed the B&C because it has a bedding block.

Somebody please regale use with that logic.

I'll take this bet.

Nicely put. Exactly what I've posted since day one.

BMD- post pics of the groups AFTER WE DISASSEMBLED your rigs cleaned barres and reassembled. They shot to essentially the same POI with different bullet weights and new brass. Not to mention different lots of powder.

All you non-bedding gurus hold on to your hair pieces because it actually works. Whodathunkit?

So jg you saying bedding is better or not? You kinda talk out both sides your mouth.

Bedded is better. But when a pretty good rifle that should shoot won't shoot, bedding is not the first step to correct the problem. Not both sides of my mouth, you have not paid attention throughout. I've never suggested bedding is bad, and that it will hurt anything. Out of the box rifles now days shoot pretty darn well without bedding. So why wouldn't this one? Simple fix, loose action screws. Bedded or not no rifle will shoot with loose action screws.

Bedded is better. But when a pretty good rifle that should shoot won't shoot, bedding is not the first step to correct the problem. Not both sides of my mouth, you have not paid attention throughout. I've never suggested bedding is bad, and that it will hurt anything. Out of the box rifles now days shoot pretty darn well without bedding. So why wouldn't this one? Simple fix, loose action screws. Bedded or not no rifle will shoot with loose action screws.

A desucker rod?

It seems like on most forums I frequent, there's always an irritating somebody that has something to prove or needs the last word. What's all that about? Give it a rest Karnis.

Just a friendly reminder.. I'll take this bet.

The first step before shooting any rifle is addressing screws, bedding, FF, etc. You continue to say tightening screws then shooting and finding it won't shoot is the way to go. For a self proclained LR shooting guru you give no useful advice. Just admit it. You send someone a check for $5000 and tell them to build you one and the thump your chest about your 15lb rifle that shoot little groups. Nobody cares about your 15lb rifles. Any numbnuts can make something like that shoots.

This is about the OPs 8.5lb sporter and everyone else's sporter that is reading this thread.

It's painfully obvious your recommendations leave little to be desired.

Fireman, I care about your 15 pound rifles. I dig em!

I've been ignoring you, and you are still insulting me, so I will reply to your dumbazz.

I'm not self proclaimed, I shot out to 800 yards yesterday, and the day before that, and three other times last week. You? I purchased a Savage 10 chambered in 308 Win, and learned to hand-load with it, and leared to shoot long range with it. Hit 1 MOA steel at 1K with an unmodified rifle. Then won CDI bottom metal at a rifle match. I inletted that Savage stock myself with my mill and file work. Then ordered a McMillan A-5. Once it arrived it had fitment issues, I corrected that myself, again, with files. Then decided I wanted more BC and more velocity and ordered an Obermeyer 6.5 mm with a 1:8.5" twist. My gunsmith who is a nice guy, unlike you, did the machining for free and centered to .0005" dual indicating. And I stood beside him through the whole process learning volumes about operating a lathe, since I also have one of those as well. When he needs steel fab work and welding done I do the work for him for free, so we trade. No internet order or phone call made on my rifles, and no $5000 bill for them.

I worked up the next load with 130 Bergers. Once the barrel broke in and sped up, I worked up another load with 140 A-maxes. And have shot that rifle with that load from 20F to 105F prone, seated, kneeling, offhand, and using what ever structure is available to make a shot. That action/ trigger now has 4000 rounds on it, and it's still going strong. "Any numbnuts can make something like that shoots" Yes you put an "S" on the end you're so smart. That is incorrect. I work up loads at 500 yards and see what a load not within the node of the sine wave produces, so you again are wrong. I am not explaining this to you, I am explaining this to anyone that is new that does not know you are full of chit.

You come on here and show how obvious it is how small of a man you are. And you threaten and insult anyone else that has knowledge on the same subject you do, a clear sign of insecurity. You invent the tales of your demented version of the truth that you simply fabricated from your mentally ill mind. You also make statements that myself, Chad, and Dave don't know anything since it is not your way. We do know what we are talking about, and we are not gathering this information from the internet and/ or books. The information we share is from the field; rifle range, and hunting. They are nice guys and very accomplished, and knowledable riflemen. They, and I, also provide help when someone asks for it. When a person makes a post here they are seeking help, and it is our choice to provide the help they seek. If what we contribute does not suit you, move on. Don't tell us we are stupid, and don't know what we are talking about, because it is simply a steady stream of lies.


Go away. A large group of people around here hate your guts and liver. I've already recieved PM's with rifle/ hand-loading/ optics/ and shooting questions that would've been asked publicly had it not been for the existence of Karnis and BMD ruining countless threads.