Hey everyone. So I have a Win M70 300wsm that I'm trying to get to shoot sub-moa so that I can use it as a trusty long range backpacking rifle. It has a good scope on it (Meopta Meopro) and I've tried quality ammo. The best group I can get out of it so far is just under 2 inches. When I got back from the range last time, I did notice that the two screws holding the stock on where looser than they should be so that could've been part of the problem I guess, but I've not been able to shoot it after tightening them yet. As far as I can tell, the barrel is free floated and the trigger is smooth. I'm planning on starting to reload for the rifle once I have it set up like I want. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I really want this rifle shooting tight groups so I can trust it out to 500 yds. If I can't get it to shoot as well as I'd like, It'll be joining me at the next gun show I go to unfortunately. Thanks in adv.

A picture of the target would help. Action screws not being tight could be it or there are a lot of other possibilities.

I'll take pics next time I shoot it. I don't have any right now.

Loose action screws is the same as a weak foundation on a structure. Everything above it suffers. Tighten the hell out of em, and reshoot.

Next question is what is the twist rate? And what bullet weight are you shooting through it?

Also check the tightness of the scope base, windage screws, and ring cap screws. Blue (low hold) Locktite and a F.A.T. wrench are two cheap items that can remove variables from this problem.

What base and rings are you using?

The action screws should be tight now but haven't shot it after tightening them yet. I'm not sure what the twist rate is yet...i'm going to try and figure that out soon with a buddy who knows how. I was trying 5 different 180 gr factory loads. The scope bases and ring screws should be good. I originally had issues with some std leupold rings/bases but have since changed over to talley's and used removable locktite on all of the screws in the mounting system. I checked the ring screws after shooting it last and they were all still snug.

First thing I would do is bed it. Then you have a base to work from.

Looks like you covered everything. Odds are you have a twist to run those 180's just fine, 1:10 be my guess. Even a 1:11 will stabilize those just fine, specially with all that fuel behind them.

So many variables... How many shots do you shoot in a string? 3,5,10? How hot is the barrel getting? As you've mentioned how tight are all of the screws? How are you resting the rifle as you shoot? "Off of the forearm and not resting on the barrel" What kind of break in and cleaning has the barrel had? Will it shoot a few rounds close and then have some fly off? It's hard to diagnose but hopefully with the knowledge here on the forum and tips from everyone you'll get it dialed in!

I've never done this before. I am thinking about a bell and Carlson stock though if I determine that bedding might be the issue.

I was trying 3 shot groups with time to cool between groups.

I'm resting the rifle on sand bags to shoot and on the stock, not the barrel.

No idea how it was broken in as I'm the second owner but the previous owner just shot 150 gr ballistic tips which I don't want to use.

I clean the barrel at least every time I take it to the range.

I've always heard guys say a dirty barrel is more accurate. I'm still learning to shoot better groups, in no way an expert, but I think it's best to only clean the barrel once accuracy drops off. I wouldn't clean it every trip.

Interesting...

I'm with Tff. These days I clean when accuracy falls off. It varies with the rifle. And it's worth mention that one of my rifles, a 223 with a standard barrel, really needs a cold barrel for best shooting. That makes it hard to hunt for the best powder/bullet combination if I don't have a LOT of patience.

I clean after several hundred rounds, depending on which barrel. My Obermeyer .260 for instance, needs a light carbon removal, followed by several dry patches every 400 rounds.

Sounds like I'll be waiting between cleanings now.

Some rifles have preferences I would shoot some groups with the 180 then try some with the 165 range and the 150. If there is a marked preference it should show quickly. I've seen it in 70's era Sako's within 10 on the serial number range. Also experiment with boattail versus flat base bullets.

Sounds good. Next time I go, I'm already planning on shooting 150s and 165s compared to 180s. I'm hoping to reload 168 Barnes TSX for it eventually.

I never put a rifle away dirty, knowing what powder residue does to a barrel. But I also never expect a clean bore to produce an accurate shot. My rifles always seem to "settle in" after two or three shots.

As mentioned earlier, I would suggest trying another brand of ammo once you feel certain any mechanical issues are resolved. And having someone else fire a few rounds is always a good control component when measuring the accuracy of any barrel.

Find your twist rate.

Match the bullet weight to the twist rate, and it will save you some money on ammo. What ever you do, save your brass. You may decide to start rolling your own. If not you can hire someone to do it for you, and hand loads made from fire formed brass will really tighten up how the rifle shoots.

You're cleaning to much

As I said earlier bed the rifle. Without it you are just pissing in the wind. It is twisted 1-10.

What exactly is your cleaning routine?

Do you flinch/anticipate the recoil? Nice smooth trigger pull? As stated earlier...lots of variables

Winchester Model 70's aren't known to have bedding problems. We already know that the action screws were loose. Bedding the rifle before you even try tightening the action screws is a bit like a doctor recommending surgery before an examination.

JHFC! A properly bedded rifle never shoots worse!

But please carry on, the entertainment value is priceless!