I'm currently borrowing a AGM Rattler V2 and using on a suppressed 300 Hamr AR. I've killed 5 hogs so far, but noticed what appears to be residue(perfect little circles) after firing the first shot. I didn't notice this at all when sighting it in during the day, but very visible at night. Is this normal? Can it be prevented?
It kept me from potentially getting multiple shots tonight.

Pixel bubbles? Can you post a pic? NO, it is not normal in the sense that it should not be happening.

Is it gasses coming from the port? I'm suppressed with adjustable gas block. Cycles perfectly and ejects at 3:30

Here's a pic before 1st shot was fired



Here's one after 1st shot fired and got even worse after second shot.

It's the hot gas/trash exiting. What powder are you using? Or factory loads? Rattler also have the V2,
There is a good target behind that cloud. 300AAC 110vmax and H110 powder. I put a Kaw Valley linear comp on it and it helped greatly. Throws the stuff straight out.
I don't know if it is due to recording or shock that causes the raster breakup ( horiz lines).

Just shooting factory ammo.
Is there a proper way to clean it off?

Nope, not hot gasses. That is in the scope, what I call pixel bubbles (I don't know the actual term or how or why they occur, but it has been suggested that they are 'weak' pixels, whatever that means). I have seen it on a couple of different units and NUCing would not clear, but restarting would. They came up with the boot process, however, and not with recoil.

I’ve never seen anything like that in a Pulsar. I’d say you’re lucky it’s something you borrowed rather than bought.

I reckon, but I've only heard top notch reviews on AGM. This unit is 2 weeks old and the owner is currently using 4 other AGM products with no issuues. I guess that 5 year warranty will come in handy.

The pic I showed was during daylite. Your pic you see the cloud and 'sparkles'. IIRC Hamr ammo uses CFEblk or 1680 powder that burns pretty dirty. I'm using lightworks, freebie vid processing SW to look frame by frame at the shot vid. If it is hot 'sparkles' it should go away pretty fast and they will move. If bad pixels, much slower/don't move. NUCing puts a shutter in front of the sensor to adjust/normalize each pixel output. Funny, back in early 70s I worked with Phys Doc (Gibbons IIRC) who was interested in the Vox detectors, has taken a long time to go commercial. We also worked on a differential wingtip barometer for his glider flying.

Thanks for the input.

Just got off the phone with AGM customer service(super nice people). They believe it's due to not having burn prevention turned on..?
They had me turn it on and I'll try again Sunday night, hopefully.

AGM customer service Yup very good. I had a question and answer in 30 sec on phone. Now if they would get their programmers to fix their menu stuff. Not wrong, just lazy.

Burn Prevention is to prevent damage by exposure to excessive heat sources such as looking at the sun or a welder's arc. I am not sure what it is going to do in this case.

From the Manual...
2.2.19 BURN PREVENTION
This function can prevent damage to the thermal sensor from the sun or other
high temperature bright light sources. When enabling this function, the shield
will close until the environment turns to normal. This feature may be useful
to help protect sensitive displays during extreme summer temperatures. AGM
recommends all units be stored in room temperature whenever possible, as
long periods of storage in extreme heat (such as inside a vehicle) may lead to
issues with the display materials.

After seeing the photos, the customer service lady asked specifically what muzzle brake or in my case what suppressor I was using. She stated there was a partial fireball causing the Pixel dots. She had me turn on burn prevention. So, it may not fix it but that's what she stated. She seemed very confident in her evaluation, but who knows...

You must have quite a flash going on to get one out of a silencer that’s so bad it’s messing up a thermal scope. I’m still hesitant to buy into what they told you but I’m hoping they know more about their product than I do. I don’t have one so I’m just hesitant based on using other brands.

That is because it is probably a bogus excuse.

Burn prevent just puts the (NUC) shutter in front of the sensor.

I sent a email to customer service with a video of what's going on in addition to speaking with them on the phone. I haven't heard back from them through email.