I have a custom Remington 700 .223 with a Shilen match target barrel that will shoot same hole. Funny story; I earned the barrel and labor by chipping all of the mortar off of a full load of old bricks when I was 13. I paid for the action and the scope, and the gunsmith was a family friend so he helped put together my first rifle I bought myself. It has a lot of sentimental value, and I want to carry that forward by rebarreling to something that my son will be able to carry around and shoot. The target barrel and rig weighs over 12lbs so not really hunting friendly. I do want to keep the barrel for when I go prairie dog hunt again though.

I’ve read a lot about the 300 HAMR and know that a lot of members here are a big fan of the AR and Ruger conversion kits. Anyone do a rebarrel on a rem 700 or other action to this caliber and any thoughts? I’m looking at the Shaw barrel that just needs a gunsmith to set the shoulder for headspace.

Leave that .223 alone, and buy all new parts for a .300 HAMR.

Everyone needs a bolt action .223 Rem, especially one that shoots extremely tight.

Switch barrels can be finicky, unless you pin the recoil lug, I would recommend a blue print unless you plan for checking and verifying headspace.

I would recommend a gunsmith who builds switch barrels if you do it. Some shaw barrels shoot well, some don’t. Douglas seem to shoot a bit better in my experience and are roughly priced similarly.

Sounds like a cool project

I struggle to understand the 300 hamr advantage in a bolt rifle. It’s hard to argue it is not one of the best rounds from an AR-15 platform, but in a bolt rifle, you aren’t limited. A .308 is going to carry a bunch more energy, ammo will be cheaper, and recoil difference won’t be significant. If AR-10 sized rifles didn’t often weigh 10-15lbs there would be no market for 300 hamr.

Thanks for the advice. Action was blueprinted when originally put together, but I don’t think the lug was pinned. I would for sure get a headspace gauge if I ever throw the target barrel back on myself.



Advantage for me is not having to buy a new bolt since my action was trued with that bolt. Ideally I would do a 308, but 300 HAMR is really best bang for the buck on that bolt face from what I can tell.

I really have no idea how hard it is to change a barrel on a 700 but I imagine it is not a super quick and easy task. If the 223 shoots one hole groups and you want to keep it around for prairie dogs why mess with swapping the barrel? Leave it alone and don’t mess up a good thing. Buy another rifle if you want a Hamr. I am a huge fan of the TC encores which are purpose built for interchangeable barrels and I dislike changing them so much I own a separate frame for each barrel I have. I can’t imagine swapping barrels on a bolt gun depending on what game I am after.

You need a barrel vise and an action wrench.

Take the scope off, which is not too difficult if you're using the right rings to do so.

Barrel goes into the barrel vise, that is mounted to a heavy and strong bench. Most action wrenches go inside the action, where the bolt would go. They have a square end, or a hex end. 90 foot pounds is often the torque applied to aftermarket barrels. Factory barrels are often much tighter. Once the action is broken free from the barrel, take the action all the way off. Remove barrel #1 from the vise and install barrel #2 in the vise. Screw the action onto barrel #2 and torque it down.

It can be done in 10 minutes.

Pinned lug is great advice for switch barrel setup. Everything I own is a switch barrel but I don’t switch things around as much as one would think. There is a lug alignment tool I’ve used that also does a great job but pinned is much easier.

I wouldn’t worry with a head space gauge, if it’s a shouldered barrel. Not necessary because there is no way to change it unless you swap a bolt on accident.

Good luck, I say do it…I like my Hamrs enough I’m going to do a bolt, waiting on barrel now. I went Shilen because they are a TX company and I’ve never owned one, figured that was a travesty that needed fixin.

It’s all about what you want to shoot. I have an AR in .300 Ham’r as well as a bolt gun. Why? Same reason I have a 10mm semi-auto and a 10mm revolver. Cuz I like them. Don’t really need any justification beyond that.

Will eventually buy a 12” pistol barrel in .300 Ham’r for my Encore platform. No other reason than I want to.

I was thinking along the lines of if current barrel is shouldered simple to remove and put back then use a remage setup for the second barrel or have one shouldered to fit same actionsetup. Bolt face is the same between those two

Apparently, there are some that may have missed my Gentleman's Rifle lecture at RRU (Ridge Runner University)!
Normally this lecture is hours long (or however long someone else is paying for the adult beverage), but I will give you the abbreviated version.

The Gentleman's Rifle is a weapon designed for the owner to carry during his daily strolls around the plantation. It is a rifle that is short, handy, and lightweight. It should be chambered in a cartridge that will put down any size game that he may come upon on his property. (Hogs, Deer, Bear, Salesmen) It should be a smooth bolt-action and stocked in a nice piece of walnut! (Words such as high-capacity, tactical, or mil-spec should never be spoken when discussing a Gentleman's Rifle!)
It should be noted that the only reason needed to purchase a Gentleman's Rifle is "I want one!" I can not imagine any time I may feel "limited" by using a 300 HAM'R. After all, a Gentleman would never take a shot beyond his capabilities.

I have my fair share of 300 HAM'R ARs, but this 300 HAM'R is my Gentleman's Rifle.

I should have mentioned one fine detail about the Gentleman's Rifle. It does not go out in bad weather! But, that is what the Ruger/Wilson was made for! This thing can get habit forming! It may not be as "refine" but I have enjoyed it!

Well said Graycard. Sometimes it is not about a rifle for every situation short to long range but about being enough for the task at hand and get enjoyment from the said rifle. Many places I carry a rifle there is no need for long range rifle and a well balanced light weight rifle is much more fun for a good walk

I would go by torque on the barrel.

As well as a fine, scribed timing mark on the action, and on both barrels. Two things to verify the barrel got screwed down in the same place every time.

A switch barrel is nothing if done correctly. Call Clayton at West Tex Ordnance. His switch lug is easy peasy and I’ve run the setup in matches. It’s not cheap, but it does what it’s advertised to do.

Michael at S&S precision in Denton has been doing switch barrels for me for 10 years some of the actions have three different barrels and I have never had a problem. I put one on last weekend that I have not shot in 2 years and it went right back to hammering

Agree with you but its best to be using a blueprint action bolt etc, pinned lug makes it easier. Shouldered is best in my opinion. Barrel nuts can work well but really need headspace gages to set up.

Not saying switch barrels are a bad idea at all guys, just better ways than others.