I know this isn't a tractor forum but y'all are the jack of all trades types. I have a 1959 ford 641 workmaster with what I believe to be a ford 730 loader. The problem I'm having is the front hydraulic driveshaft became misaligned. Seems the loader dropped down in the front about a half to three quarters of an inch. I've pulled the radiator and jacked up the loader and got everything in alignment and it works fine. Until I lower the jack. Seems like the center axle support isn't holding it firm but everything is tight where it bolts up. Any advice? I took video also if anyone would like to see it also have more pics.

What does it ride on? Like a bearing race or bushing? I'd look at that first.

Inspect the whole front axle support, they can crack.
Bushing can be completely wore out eating into center axle & front axle support.
Then the front axle pivot pin & bushings, should be tight no slop. with a loader should use heavy duty axle support pin (hex head), not the notched / 2 prong.
Then inspect the center axle & bushing.

Front axle bushings & support pin are wear items, using a loader puts severe pressure on them, not uncommon to replace bushings & pins frequently when a FEL is mounted.

This is the part that is moving up and down that the whole shebang seems to be mounted to. But there are 0 bolts visible. So unless it broke a weld along that edge perfectly all the way around or was spot welded internally I dont see any way to adjust it.

Also the way I got it the driveshaft just goes through the hole in the axle through that sleeve where it mounts to the crankshaft. And I haven't seen any pics online or parts schematics that show a bearing.

You might post this question on:

yesterdaystractor.com or tractorbynet.com

There are some really good knowledgeable people on there also.

Well after a little reading and looking online I think you're on to something, mine has the two prong and it seems like its pushed too far back or so it's no longer supporting the piece that's moving. I'm honestly shocked that this axle support pin is what was designed to bear the front weight of a loader. I've been telling my self there as no way in heck they would do that. So now I need to figure out how to get it out. Looks like I'm going to be doing a big teardown of the front end to do that.

The radius rods, cups & caps should hold the front axle in the correct position.
In the mid 80"s there were some aftermarket radius rods sold that were 1/2" - 3/8" too short. If yours were replaced with these non spec rods it will let the front axle work itself & ride towards the back.

It wasn't uncommon for folks to mount a loader & never know or think about the standard duty support pin many were/are used for many, many years without problem.
A trained or savvy mechanic / dealer always replaced the standard duty with a heavy duty pin when installing loader apparatus which increased the cost, so many folks did it themselves or went with the lower cost loader installation.

Depending on your skills, tools & equipment the job ranges from fairly straight forward to difficult. If I were going to do it every wear part along the way would get replaced everything measured & fit correctly.
While the parts available today are good they aren't as good as OE Ford parts which are difficult to find.
You don't want to do this job twice in the span of a few years.

On tractors of this age & size even though the loaders can be quite strong it is best to consider them light duty & not use them for heavy work, as you now see everything is supported by a single hollow pin, bushings & thin film grease.

If you have the wherewithal step one is to remove loader, power wash from radius rod supports forward, then support front of tractor a few inches off ground, start disassembly from outside in.

Thanks Rustler! I really appreciate the insight. Any idea what this would cost to have rebuilt by a pro? I can do just about anything once I commit to it, but I'm limited on tools and equipment and a concrete workspace at the moment (everything is in storage). So it may be in my best interest to hire it out.

You might run it by these guys on this site....
https://arthurstractors.com/

Probably not the problem with the excess movement but that is a strange set up between the engine and Hyd pump. Normally you see maybe a universal type shaft or at the minimum a rubber type piece where the engine part and hyd part bolt together. The way it is there is no room for not being exactly aligned.

I agree, the setup doesn't allow much room for error. But looks to be the way they did it on all of them.

Where is the tractor located? I notice you have Blanco County in your profile. I can give you some referrals for good mechanics if the tractor is located there.

Tractor is in dalworthington gardens In Tarrant county.

I'm sorry I can't help you there. If you have problems in the Blanco and Gillespie County areas, I can help you there if you ever need anything.

I don't know for sure what it might cost to have someone do the job. Guess, $200 - $700 plus parts depending.
Hard to tell what's going on from your pictures, mignt be on the high end depending on how the pump is mounted & what all is cracked, broken or worn out.

if it were originally installed by a dealer or quality mechanic they would've used the OE front pump mount, changed support/pivot pin to heavy duty & used the 'short' pump driveshaft. Makes it a lot easier to tear down repair & reinstall.
I mention this because if your end up needing a few of the bigger hard parts putting it back together with OE or reproduction pieces is easier than re engineering somebody else's 20 year old idea of how to mount & support it all.

Also try yesterdaystractor(s)com. It’s just one model newer than my NAA or I might be of help.

In the pic, it does appear to be broken right along that weld. Are my eyes playing tricks on me?