Finally got this one finished up after quite a fight. I had it designed for a slotted guard and full tapered tang, but ended up nicking the tang while I was working on the guard. Rather than toss the whole thing, I cut the tang down to a stick tang, put on a regular guard, and did mortised sheep horn. 7 inches exactly from tip to tail, with the blade 3 3/8 to the front of the guard. Not one of my usual designs at all, but when you're cleaning up a mess, you make the best with what you've got. I marked this one on the spine in front of the guard, instead of my usual spot on the blade.



Jerry, question... This blade is only about 5/8 from spine to edge. On such a thin blade, is it acceptable to split the difference on the handle width behind the guard, like I tried to do here? I've got a forged blade in the same pattern that I'm considering for my JS test batch.

For those not familiar with what I'm talking about, it's customary on hunters and small bowies to have the handle behind the guard be the same height as the ricasso of the blade. Because this one's so thin at the ricasso, I set the handle about 1/8 above and 1/8 below, to give a thicker handle.

Jason, it the judging room they want to see equal distance between the top and the bottom of the handle and ricasso. You are right on that. It can be slightly larger or smaller but equal. To be honest yours is a bit too much. Bring it in a bit closer to center, it does not have to be on the money but about 1/16 top and bottom suits everyone. More than that you will get a few no marks, how many one can never tell but it does not take many.

You did good with this one,. Good flow for what it is designed to be. You want to make sure you have no sharpening marks, hand sand those off.
If you grind/sand on the handle the original texture they they hold you responsible. So you have to make sure the handle is straight if you grind on it. Left alone with NO sanding grinding they accept a bit of twist as that is nature, but again, if you sand on it then it is Jason and they require very straight with the blade.
You continue to improve your work, that's good, as we should all strive to do.

Thanks, Jerry. No way I'd use a mortise or sheep horn on a JS test knife, for exactly the reasons you noted. This one is straight, and pretty close to symmetrical, but that's a risk I wouldn't take on a test knife.

I didn't try and convex this edge at all, which I would on a test knife. This one's just ground pretty thin and then sharpened. It's 154CM. I've got a forged W2 blade in this same shape and dimensions that may end up in the test set.

I'm running into some time problems. I wanted to finish my performance test in February, to give myself cushion enough to re-test before ICCE in September, should a retest be necessary. I've got twin boys due in the next four weeks, and a show at the end of February, so it's just not going to happen. That means I've got one shot. I think I can do it, but it gives me pause to not have a backup plan. Either way, I intend to start on some of the judging set knives while I'm out on parental leave. I'm still shooting for ICCE JS judging, if life doesn't get in the way.

Jason, life often does, it will just give you time to get better if something does get in your way.
Who is going to do your physical test for you?

If there is anything I can help with just let me know.
Not to worry you but to give a heads up, what one person says can often be different than what a group of judges says. But, if you get the right people to critique it that sure helps. Critique is sure different than looking.

I haven't nailed down a tester yet. I'm closest in proximity to Horrigan, and have been by his shop a few times, but haven't talked to him about testing. Harvey Dean's not too far off, and I know him reasonably well. I've been to the judging class at Washington, and have had Ray Kirk, Harvey, and Ed Caffrey look at my work critically at shows over the last two years. I think I've got a good idea of what needs to be done, and I am confident that I can do it. Every knife I've shown asking a question, either here or on the ABS forum, is a knife I have a question about. I've texted Lin Rhea directly a few times with specific questions as well. I don't intend to do anything "questionable" for the test set. Clean and straightforward.

Regarding real critique vs. internet pictures, I'll say for the others who may read this thread, they are absolutely not the same. There are many details that are important that it is either easy to hide or difficult to show in a picture. I put this picture set up mostly to ask Jerry about one particular set of dimensions, that he could see from the pic.

Also, if you want somebody with skills to look at a knife for you, you'd better ask directly. The further you get along the journey, the easier it is to spot the errors, but nobody's going to point them out for you without an invitation to do so.

I like it Jason. Been thinking of getting my mitts on some of that horn material. It's really nice stuff.

very nice.. Im putting the finishing touches on a damascus with rams horn.. really like the look, great work!

Jason, is this one for sale? Your PM box was over the limit..

Cleaned out the box. Shoot me again.