I cam across a Winchester Model 70 in 270 WSM. I went all out on her, Being SS, I bought a Game Reaper scope mount, Muller scope (very limited silver/steel colored scope these days). I finally had the chance to take her out. Got her on paper at 100 yards, no rest. Didn't want to waist the ammo since I forgot the rest at home.
Once home, started cleaning. The scope had walked back 2 inches in the mount. I know they were tight, torque seal was in tack. Where they not tight enough? If I use a torque wrench, what should I torque the screws to? (in lbs/ft lbs)

It depends on the rings. Each manufacture has a different setting to torque too. I would start with a good set of rings and torque to the correct specs and you should never have a problem. I use seekins rings and have never had a issue with my scope moving or loosing my zero. And yes if you don't have a torque wrench in in pounds then I suggest getting one as it is a invaluable took. I use borka for my torque wrench.

Walter

Walt,
Have you known of anyone else having this issue with DNZ Game Reaper? I have to admit, I have never had this happen with my 06, or 270 win or any other rife I have owned.

Thanks for the advise

You probably got a scope with a tube a few thousandths small, and mated it with rings that were a few thousandths large. Both items are possibly still within specs. It has happened to me as well.

John Barsness has long recommended that the rifleman lay a strip of electrical tape inside the ring where it contacts the scope to stop any recoil slippage. Rarely, you may need two thicknesses of tape. Then torque your screws to around 20"-lbs, or what the manufacturer recommends.

I've done this myself. It works.

Thanks, sounds liked a good idea. Glad you shared the information.

Won't heat really affect the electrical tape over time? I'd be real uncomfortable to use that in a hunting situation without knowing 100% you fixed the issue. How about some different rings that you know aren't out of spec?

Not sure I understand what you mean about heat. The scope rings don't get hot like a barrel or even a receiver. And it should be noted that the adhesive on the tape has nothing to do with the grip. It is simply the thin strip of vinyl that is important.....it takes up space between the two surfaces.

Again, the rings may not be out of spec (they probably aren't)....they are just on the large side of permissible tolerances. Likewise the scope may be on the small size of its own tolerances.

FWIW, the personal rifle I was referring to that has the tape job is my .300 WM. It has been this way for at least a decade, probably more. And I've done a lot of hunting with it too, and even more shooting off the bench. The scope doesn't move even one whit. And the .300 Winny DOES pack a bit of recoil.

But if you're losing sleep and getting indigestion bordering on ulceration, then try a different set of rings. But your scope tube MAY be the bigger outlaw, so don't throw out the old rings....they might fit perfectly on the next scope.

Rather than tape, I have heard that you can cut strips out of an aluminum soda can and use those as spacers to get firm grip. Never done it myself, but heard it from two different gunsmiths over the years.

I would add images, but it will not let me. Currently working overseas

I also had a gunsmith hand me an empty beer can to cut up so I could shim a scope that needed a bit more elevation adjustment. Don't see why that would work for this too. It would seem that the electrical tape will add a bit of "squish" to help conform to the shape of the scope/rings better.

I've seen the tape trick used. It was a mess when we took it apart to put a new scope on a few years later. Funny how the new scope fit into the cleaned up rings tight as it was supposed to be. I think I would exchange the rings and try that or try another scope in those rings before I rigged it.

The thing about rigging it is you have to have exact thicknesses front and back. If your "spacer" is off by a little side to side or top to bottom and especially back to front you are throwing off the alignment of the scope and could cause unforeseen issues with the tube or even the inside optics if it causes torque on them.

Well, I guess this will be an issue to deal with once I get back to the states

first, are the top ring caps hitting the bottom ring bases??

if they are not touching, then you don't need any filler use a torque wrench set a 15-20 inch/pounds or a 4 screw per cap ring or around 30-35 inch/pounds on a 2 screw per cap mount.

you can add a pinch of resin powder to the upper and lower ring set then tighten, but I've never needed it..

I'd simply return the ring set it's probably the part that is out of spec....

I use Warne scope mounts and my glass does not move at all, these suckers are tight.

I also put a dab of lock tight on the screws.