We're putting in a new 12' entry gate, across the 16' wide driveway, 65 feet in from the highway. We can use the typical solar/battery powered operator. But we'd also like to explore running feeder wire about 700' from the barn which is the closest point of our metered 120V service. Probably bury it in a trench on the edge of the drive (or in it) all the way to the area of the new gate location. The 120V will allow us to have intercom service and a surveillance camera in addition to the gate operator itself. Anyone have experience with a project like this or some do's and don't advice?

I've run plenty of wire, above and below ground. That is an ambitious project. Can you handle 700 feet of trench, that's the hard part, except for paying for 700 feet of wire and pipe. Compare costs for pipe and wire, you'll need 10 awg wire because of the long run, with romex rated for direct burial. Boxes of romex only have 250 feet, so you are talking a 1000' spool. Power it with a 20 amp breaker, at most a 30. You might do a little research on voltage drop across 700' of 10awg and see if you need to go with 8awg. Be ready to open your wallet.

you'd be cheaper to use 2- 12v deep cycle batteries, and inverter, and a solar charger..
Just sayin...

That is a loonnngggg run of wire. I'd ask an electrician what you might need to make that stretch.

If you run wire, put it in conduit. I didn't, the first time, on an important service. As for the gate, we use a deep cycle battery and a solar charger. Don't go cheap on the battery.

Between the cost of two deep cycle batteries intended for solar application, and adding an inverter to obtain 120V service at the gate, the cost is about the same as running 700' of recommended Cerro wire and conduit. Again, the only reason for the 120V service at the entry is for intercom/phone remote connection and a security camera.

I've spoken with a few land owners who've gone solar only and they were later disappointed. Also talked with some others that went straight 120V AC and they too weren't happy afterwards. They ultimately added solar panels and batteries. Either way, with a moderate design/price 12' single gate and steel posts, and with 20' of steel fence up to the gate posts, I'm still looking at a $6,500 +- project.

You'll need to install separate conduits for your power vs. data (camera, telephone, etc.) cables..
@ 700' @ 120v, a 20 amp load will experience greater than 10% voltage drop, that's installing # 8 copper..
So minimum 2100' of # 8 copper (3 runs @ 700'), 1400' of conduit, trenching, back filling, etc., will be matched by the cost of 2 deep cycle batteries and a 200 watt inverter with solar charger ? You'll also need to set at least 2 or 3 pull boxes throughout the run.. I don't know about you, but I'd rather shave with sawdust than dig trench.. 700' of trench???? I'd brush my teeth with sawdust too. LOL

So Daniel ... I've put you down for a firm maybe?

LOL...
Yes sir, I'll be there... Oops, just looked at my calendar.. I have a root canal scheduled for that day. I'll HAVE to pass.

Actually ... when we ran the electrical service from our newly constructed home in 2004 about 100' to the pre-existing barn, I simply dropped a single knife on the box blade of my small tractor, articulated the box way down to one side and then pulled a 15" deep trench through the drive (24" gravel over white rock) to make the service trench we needed. Took three passes and a very minor amount of shovel clean out at each end.



Refilling the trench with the front end loader was a piece of cake. Planned on doing it the same way from the barn to the gate if we decide to run the 120V service out that far. I do have a separate panel in the barn for the power we added their originally. I can probably reschedule that work a lot more easily than you can a root canal if you're still volunteering.

Cappy,
we've gone the subsoiling route on a few trenches.. Laying the wire in as we go.. It has worked most of the time..

As any of my friends will tell you: I am usually the first to offer help doing just about anything. (Many times to my own detriment) LOL

If you need help sir, say the word, give me directions, and I'll be there to help.

Well if you can trench it yourself, you're half way there. I just checked and 8-2wg UG romex will cost about a buck a foot. That's the cheapest route, but you'll hate troubleshooting it when it fails.

big roll of wire there.....ever think about adding some outlets on the way to the power source...xmas lights er what ever in the future. that way you can use multiple rolls of wire and ya have power here and there inside exposed j boxes

That would also make it much easier to troubleshoot.

Great idea!

Cooper is pretty spot on, if you don't separate your data and electrical you will get interference in your data lines. Also make sure that you use electrical conduit and prime it too, not just glue, some electricians will cut that priming corner and eventually your pipes will fill with water and deteriorate your wires. Cooper is also right about pull boxes, pulling wire is rough.

Put sub- duct in and eliminate you splicing and connectors. That will in return eliminate any way for water to get in the pipe other than on either end. Also if you pull in a shielded phone cable and ground it on either end you will eliminate interference from the electricity.

Finally finished. Ended up using professional help getting it done. Josh Gonzales and Matt Brown from J's Welding. All solar/12V battery. Working well, looks good too, we think.

Looks Great Cappy..
Glad it worked out for you.
Any maintenance needs later on, (while they may be annoying), will be significantly less annoying than tracing damage/breaks in a 700' run of underground wire..

There IS a very cost-effective way to enhance what you have there (I've done for same):
You can run a 700' LV dc line (low-voltage DC) from barn to gate-box; BEST way is to use a dual-bank solar controller ( within the gate box - more on this later), and push 24 to 36v on the line - and current will typically be under 1 amp, so the wire will be cheap. Conduit would even be optional, as this is LV and not subject to strict code (as long as dc adapter is UL rated, and best connected onto a GFCI outlet - both of which will be INSIDE the barn).

Dual-bank solar controller will take solar-cell (as 1st bank) and DC-line (as second bank - acting like a solar cell)- and use both/either redundantly to keep the 12V battery charged & regulated to ideal conditions). Just BE SURE to not exceed the bank-input voltage (but DO run it towards upper end to optimize current handling).

This setup works FANTASTIC during winter months when the solar-panels just can't keep up. Will also give you 4-5 year battery life or better.

You can then ALSO connect a 12vDC wireless day/night CAMERA, AND 12v DC LED post lamps (wired to battery terminals - regulated) with no worries of killing the battery during the night - (why I did mine)!!!!!


Running a 120v 20or30 amp line is just silly unless you want to run a welder at the gate!