To start I am using some 1/2" marine plywood for walls. I framed my last blind way to heavy using 2x4's all the way. So I'm wondering what you guys use to frame lightweight blinds that are sturdy? My buddy says he uses 2x2's and the strength of the plywood adds enough rigidity.

Has anyone framed their blind with 2x2's? I am putting this blind on a 15' tower. It will be 4x4 maybe 4x5 on a 4x4 Tower. I'm thinking 2x4's for attaching to the tower with the 2x2's vertically in all the corners, and horizontally in a square at the top. 2x2' again to support my deer view windows. I would also use rigid insulation inside the 2x2's.

I am going to have a top cap made that is 4x4 or 4x5 whatever I end up doing.

If I go 4x5 then I will have 1' hanging out on the front side facing the feeder. Any issues with that? Doesn't seem like it would be a problem since my wieght would be inside the 4x4' top of the tower.

Any pics of the interior frame of your blind would be helpful.

1/2" plywood will be plenty rigid. I have used 2×2 (more precisely 2×4s ripped in half) on all my blinds. I would split the difference on the overhanging 1' unless it affects a ladder or something to get in the blind. If that is the case I would not overhang it at all. Are the legs for base wider at the bottom than the top? If they are, you might be able to cantilever out the front side but, I would not get past the feet of the blind in any case.

I forgot to mention the ladder does require I overhang the front to get in the back.

Here is a pic of the first blind I built and tower that is identical to the one I plan to use:

I use 2x2 everywhere except the base where it is bolted in. Build mine in separate sections that are labeled. Start with floor with predrilled holes,to anchore the walls. Once floor is on, it is pretty easy since everything is predrilled to bolt to base. One wall at a time, square up. Next wall, etc. last to go on is roof which is screwed in from inside and sealed at the joints. Can do this with just 2 guys.

Nice tower. I hope it is anchored good enough. It really sucks when they blow over with you in it.

2x6 yp for the base,( use 1/4" x2" lag screws to attach to tower). Remember this is what holds box to tower when standing up. 2x2s with 1/2" plywood makes a strong box.

Has anyone had trouble using screws for 2x2's, do they split on you? I have some #8 1 3/4" screws I plan to use.

And plan to use LIquid Nails to glue the 2x2's prior to the playwood as well.

1 5/8" 20 ga metal studs, I have built my last 3 out of these. There are used in commercial drywall

2X2s will work. Drill holes before putting the screw in and go 2X4 on the floor supports.

I'm building a blind for the first time. I'm trying to figure out what kind of plywood to use. I know someone said 1\2", but should it be treated? What about MDF, or moisture resistant particle board? My blind does not have to be the lightest blind, but I also don't want to overspend if I don't have to. Thanks for any suggestions.

After building my share of blinds, I've learned that "lightweight" is usually only a good thing when you initially set it up and/or have to move it. Other than that, being lightweight usually means it won't last as long and is more likely to get destroyed over time by high winds, hail, UV deterioration, etc. I'd rather a blind be a pain in the butt for the hour or so it takes to set it up, in exchange for it being rock solid for decades of use. If you plan for the blind to be permanent, it's way more important to build it right than light. With the right setup techniques and equipment, even the heaviest of tower blinds isn't too difficult to setup. Or, you can build it in sub-assemblies/ panels that are easier to manage and put it together on-site. Heavier construction not only holds up to the forces of nature longer, but also deadens sound better, doesn't move around as you do, is more resistant to varmints, and insulates better against cold weather if you use a small heater inside. The only truly lightweight blind construction I've seen that I thought was still strong enough to withstand decades of use is framing with aluminum angle stock or aluminum square tubing welded or bolted together and siding with sheet metal, but that gets VERY expensive.

I've started using Hardie siding for the walls of my blinds, screwed to treated 2X4 framing. It's totally rot proof and doesn't even necessarily require painting, if you choose not to. It's really heavy stuff, though, and it's brittle, so you have to be careful not to drop it on the corners while handling it. However, once installed, it will last longer than you.

10 years ago, a hunting buddy of mine was touting his ultra-lightweight blind construction ideas, using cedar pickets for framing and CoroPlast for siding. At the same time, I built a super heavy duty blind with the above construction on a 10' steel tower. When we were loading my blind up in a trailer to move it to location and set it up, he was reminding me repeatedly that the blind was going to be hell to setup due to its weight. With 2 of us and using a gin pole, a pick-up truck and an ATV, we got the blind in place and raised in about 45 minutes. It hasn't moved, leaked, or given me the slightest problem since. It's just as solid and sound as the day I set it up a decade ago. Varmints and insects cannot get inside. Meanwhile, he's had to replace something on his blind at least 4 times during the same 10 years as squirrels have chewed through the plastic and wind and hail tore up the CoroPlast after UV rays had made the plastic brittle. Yes, his blind was much easier to setup, however it took about the same amount of time to setup.

So, my advice is to think long-term use over many years, not what's easier to handle for the short time it takes to setup the blind. The only time a light blind is truly an asset is if you're setting up the blind in a location that's totally inaccessible to ATV, tractor, or truck, you have to carry the pieces to the site yourself, and you don't have multiple people available to help you set it up. Or, if you know in advance the blind will be moved around a lot. Otherwise, I wouldn't sacrifice durability to save weight for that very short time you spend setting up the blind.

I also use the metal studs.

I agree.......I'm building two now and there going to be heavy and require a tractor for set up but once their set thats it.

I have built mine using 2x2s for the frame and corrugated tin as the skin screwed together and painted. My oldest is ten years old and looks like the day I set it out except for the paint slightly fading. Light weight and will last a long long time.