I have been reloading 45 acp for a few years.I want to start loading rifle 270 7mm-08 300win mag.Done alot of reading on it I guess I'm slow.Don't understand what primer to use powder bullet everything.I would give my first born for some help some formulas to start with tips do's don't.THANKS

First thing you need to do is go out and buy you a reloading maual. All of them have very helpful sections for the begining reloader. Basically it is going to be the same procedures that you use for your 45. Just a little different components. Large rifle primers(bench rest primers are just a little more, but worth it)....277 bullets, different shell holders for your press...stuff like that. The powder you choose will be up to you for the most part. IMR4831...H4831...IMR4350 are good places to start, but there are a lot of good powders out there for a 270. But seriously...spend 25 bucks and get a manual and just stick to the steps and the data...work up slow and be careful...you should do fine.

heeeerod is rite get a good rel.manual i like the nosler book,it might be a good idea to buy a manual for the brand of bullet you think you will be using the most stick to that one brand and folow it closly,as you are playn with dangerous stuff as you all ready know,watch for pressure signs,right this stuff down so you dont make the same mistake twice + you will have a record of every thing you load and results of that particular load for future refrence,there might be some one on here that would come to your house and help you or let you come watch so you can see what you need to get started,where are you located?..

Welcome to The Forum. Nice to hear that you reload/handload. As heeeerod and biz have said, get a good manual and follow it to the letter. As biz also said, pick up manuals that are published, for loading with particular powders or bullets.

The only loading manual I have looked at recently, that isn't bullet specific as to brand, is the LEE Loading Manual. For the rest of them, if you are going to use a specific brand, Nosler, Barnes, Speer etc., you really need to get the manuals put out by those companies.

Thanks guys I have been reading some manuals.There is alot more to it than 45 acp.I made my first 270 bullets today need to get to the range and try them out.Any volunters to shoot one first my wife said no way.Seriously I did Fed.210 match primer 52.5gr. H4831 powder 130gr.nosler ballistic tip.Any more advice would be well taken.BE SAFE OUT THERE THE WORD IS FULL OF CRAZY PEOPLE.Oh yea I live in Denton

Glad to hear that you got things all capped up. I was looking at my Nosler #1 and my Hogdon manuals and both have step by step and comprehensive instructions for beginners. There is a big difference in some loading manuals' data, so be careful. If you are going to ere...ere on the light side. I usually work up in 1/2g increments for starters and when I get something that is looking right I start over in 1/4g increments until I find what I like. I've found that OCL is very important, but that might be a little too much for a beginner...let us know how it turns out!

Everyone else said it...Get a good reloading book. I've always used Speer.

All three rifles will require Magnum Primers. I've always used Remington 9 1/2 M magnum primers.

52.5 grains of 4831 is WAY to light for .270 130 grn bullet. If you look on the Bottle of Hodgdons you will see that it says allot more. 52 grains is more suited for a .25-06 using a 120 grn bullet. I use 59.7 grns in my .270 with 130 grn bullets. You could develope dangerous pressures by not using enough powder and having to much open area in the case. I'd unass that round and start over. Get an inertia bullet puller. Do not fire that round off. Hodgdons website calls for 60 grns of 4831 powder for the .270. That load you have would be suited for a 165 grn bullet wich I'm pretty sure they dont have for .270. 150 grns is the heaviest bullet you are going to find and it takes 55.7 grns so you would be to light for even that bullet. Your wife is smart. I wouldn't want to be the one to shoot that load.

270

and 51.5 grns for the .25-06 with a 120 grn bullet

25-06

I've been reloading the .270 since my grandpa helped me do my first bullet when I was 6 years old. I'm 37 now.

I can tell you to start at 59 grns with Hodgdon's 4831 (that is the perfect powder choice for .270 btw) and work your way up to 60. I can also tell you that Nosler Ballistic tips in .270 is probably the worst bullet to use for hunting. In .30 cal guns they work fine. Go get some Sierra, Hornady, Speer or any other bullet in spitzer boat tail and you will be happy.

According to sierra data 270WIN
case win
primer WLR
130gr.spt 130GR.SBT 135GR.HPBT MATCHKING
H4831SC 52.1 to 59.2

Lyman
case WIN
primer WLR
130gr.jacketed sbt
H4831 52gr. to 58gr.

one book one caliber
case WIN
primer FED.210
130gr. solid base ballist tip
H4831 52.5gr. to 56.5

Are these bullits unsafe to fire ?

Please pay attention to the common powder designations from Hodgdon and IMR...they are NOT the same powder!!! IMR loads usually run a bit lighter then Hodgdon's and you could have real pressure problem if you substituted one for the other.
You will also note a difference in using the resizing die on the 300WMg's belted case than the smooth sided 270, and you will need to back off the die so that it only goes down to the belt where on the non belted cases I will full length resize initially on fired factory ammo cases and then after I have shot the cases enough to generate some stretch and have trimmed the cases. Unlike your pistol cases you will not have to roll crimp or heavily crimp your bullets. Pay close attention to the chmaber length and make up a unloaded dummy test cartridge and seat the bullet out to where it is touching the lands...the bolt will get tougher to close and gently close the bolt to force the bullet back into the empty case...then use the dummy round to adjust your bullet seater a couple thousandths deeper for that style bullet. Each bullet might need the same adjustment...or your gun may just shoot well enough without this fine tuning and you can use the dummy to measure against a loaded factory round in the Manuals suggested OAL and adjust your seater to that dimension.
Fatal is correct about the Nosler BTip being a poor game bullet in claibers under 308. Good practice bullet in small calibers but has a very bad history of not holding together on deer/larger sized game critters. I shop the Nosler outlet store online and sometimes can catch blowouts at the Midway site as well.
Sportsman Warehouse has a good selection of manuals an supplies at better prices than I commonly find. they also carry a caliber specific paperback manual that sells for about $7-8 that is a compendium of all the mfg's loads for a single caiber. DO NOT use this for anything else other than AFTER you you've gotten comfortable as it has no teaching info...only load pages. Good Luck. I tain't hard and 270 is a super easy and forgiving cartridge to reload. Dunno 'bout the 7-08 and I don't load a lot of 300Winnie but enough to justify buying seperate supplies...and remeber each gun is different so just becasue this load or that bullet shoots in another rifle of the same caliber and brand as your don't mean squat ...your rifle is an individual stand alone critter and deserves to be respected as such.
Ron

current data lists....

H4831 60.0 C 3019 51,000 CUP

1994 data says (Hodgdons manual)

H4831 60.0 3113 48,500 CUP so does 1995 and 1996

Each year Powder manufactures release the new data for the new lots of powder. I have a Nosler reloading manual, a Sierra, 3 speers and 2 Hornady reloading manuals. I did find one that said 52.5 grns but that is back in 1997.

This is 2005. Always get the new data off of the bottles (Hodgdons lists loads on theirs) or go to the internet and get the latest loading data from the manufacture website if you bought new powder. They all try to make it the same each year but they cannot make it exact and they do make powders better. Nosler does make a 160 grn bullet for .270...well the book was printed in 1989

I'm not sure what the dates are on your books or how old your powder is.

All loading data is for reference only. All the books will say that. I would not expect accuracy, or good bullet performance with 52.5 grns of H4831 in a .270 with a 130 grn bullet. 55 grns is as low as I personaly would go with this years powder in a 130 grn bullet. It may not be as dangerous as I intially thought, for I do not have reloading manuals at work and after getting home I scanned them.

52.5 is low and I believe for this year the lowest reccomended is 54 grns for a 130 grn bullet. I have seen 49.5 for the low end of the 140 grn

140grn


And pay close attention to what WileyCoyote said about setting your dies. 270 is forgiving but you can throw the accuracy way off by not following the steps he gave you.

"Pay close attention to the chmaber length and make up a unloaded dummy test cartridge and seat the bullet out to where it is touching the lands...the bolt will get tougher to close and gently close the bolt to force the bullet back into the empty case...then use the dummy round to adjust your bullet seater a couple thousandths deeper for that style bullet. Each bullet might need the same adjustment...or your gun may just shoot well enough without this fine tuning and you can use the dummy to measure against a loaded factory round in the Manuals suggested OAL and adjust your seater to that dimension."

Print that out or write it down...that is great information for bullet seating. I keep all my dummy rounds in the boxes with my dies. I have several dummy rounds in each box with different bullets.

Another thing you might want to note is fire forming your brass to your chamber. Basically fire a bunch of factory rounds and get a pile of brass that has been fired in your rifle. Then I use a candle and let the smoke get on the brass and set my die so it just touches the shoulder of the case( it will remove the smoke and leave a bright ring) and using my FL (full length) dies I basically just resize the base of the cartridge and the neck. This will save brass. .270's have a habit of splitting the case necks if you do not resize them properly.

And get a case trimmer. I use Remington brass because it is soft. It stretches good as well and trims real nice. But they are only good for about 4 or 5 reloads. Federal brass is real tough..almost brittle, and Winchester is somewhere in the middle.

I made it to the range .Those 270 rounds didn't fly so well need to ad some more powder.Let me tell yall about my 300wmg.I loaded 4 different kind of rounds.Best was a 3/4 group on a sand bag no vise or fancy sled.Been shooting 1 3/4 group with factory rounds I was impressed.Had the itch to kill something with my new bullets (seemed like a new gun to).I shot a doe around 100 yards and she fell right there.I'm leaning back against atree stump with my chest bowed out thinking about how cool this was to kill something with a bullet I made.When I got through patting myself on the back I went to go get my deer.There was a small hole on oneside and a three inch exit hole on the other side.When I got the skin off there was a three inch hole all the way through.That 168gr bt hit a rib and expoled all the way through that deer.Ruined to much meat and what a mess it made.This only exper. I have with bt dont like them going back to partitions.GOOD LUCK and BE SAFE

Try a 180 grn, much safer on white tail out of a .300 win mag. 165 is to light but very effective . I shot a doe with a 150 grn 300 win mag at 130 yards and about blew it in half. A 180 has allot more mass and will leave a clean whole in and out. 220's are great as well but the recoil sucks for zeroing in.

For your .270 start at 58 grns, do about 10 there, then bump up to 59.0 grns then try my load at 59.7. I suspect you will find your rifle is most accurate between 58 and 60.

a 180partition will do the same thing out of a 300 ultra mag seen it first hand,300 mag is a little slower so it might not be as bad....