I picked up over a hundred pieces of this same stuff and I can't get the primers out. Assumed the blue mark meant something but was hoping it was reloadable.

Are those Berdan primed? Look inside the case and see if there are two holes side by side instead of 1 in the center.

Take some pics of the inside of the case.

Yup, you got it. Snake eyes on the inside.

Doesn't look like it. But what does that mean anyway?

Not berdan rimed, looks like someone got sloppy with some kind of primer sealant or used blue loctite as a sealer and glued in the primers. Cannot tell for sure but so far that is my guess.

Are the holes in them from attempting to deprime them?

Not berdan primed, looks like someone got sloppy with some kind of primer sealant or used blue loctite as a sealer and glued in the primers. Cannot tell for sure but so far that is my guess.

Are the holes in them from attempting to deprime them?

No I did not try to force them out. Didn't want to mess up my die.

It's hard to tell from those pics, but if that is S&B brass, I don't think it's worth the trouble. I have had major problems with S&B in the past. Things like: soft brass, off center flash holes, undersize flash holes and undersize primer pockets. I don't use it any more, and I certainly wouldn't put a lot of time and effort into it. Just my $0.02!

There's an article in AR this month about a Pieta SAA clone...nice revolver and very reasonably priced! They tested it with three or four brands of ammo, including S&B. The S&B brass would cause the action to bind up, apparently because of dimensional issues with the rim of the case. The other ammo brands gave no such problems. I've never used S&B ammo or brass and I guess I have good reason to always avoid it now.

It is S&B brass. Good to know, thanks guys.

Its a glue used to keep the primers from backing out. Piss poor job at that. I have some IMI brass that has red glue on them. Wouldn't worry about depriming them. To much of a risk breaking your deprimming rod. I've seen this a lot in foreign military ammo. Such as my mauser and swiss ammo.

yes i threw it all away. i thought i hit a gold mine when i saw all this scattered on the ground, now i know why nobody else picked it up.

just get you A Lee de-priming die. I use it on all the Military brass I get & never A problem pinching out the primers

+1.

Will lee dies fit in my RCBS press ?

sure will

Good advice here. The Lee decapper is one Lee product I endorse! You CAN break a pin (ask me how I know), but it's a pretty tough tool.

Will Lee warranty a pin..I am sure RCBS would?

I had to buy some extras. I am sure Lee will make good on stuff that shows manufacturing defects, but I've always heard more stories about them being happy to sell you something that you broke than them replacing it for nothing like RCBS and Hornady will. I figured they'd do the same with me so I never tried to get them to send the pins for nothing.

Thanks RR,
On Lee and RCBS:
When you break a pin on a universal decapping die are you able to get the broken piece out of stem are does it break off flush?

James, since I am the only one I know of who has broken one, I am assuming you are asking me. On the Lee, I was able to get the broken pin out of the stem.

I have never broken A Lee pin. I am sure it can be done. I have used it on thousands of military 556 & 9mm & 45acp 7.62x51 & 06 brass. One must remember what they are de-capping, crimped primers so no need to hall [censored] while doing it. It does not take talent to tear up an anvil!!

Mine broke because of a chunk of tumbling media that did not come out. I wouldn't have thought that this could cause a broken pin, but it did.

I have never used a universal. Always a FL sizer. I have broken a few of the Lyman T shaped pins on older style dies. They were small in diameter and a weak link IMO. Got away from them because of t pins. Never have any trouble with the straight pins type, Thanks