I have approx 200 pieces of 40 S&W once fired brass. I've ran it thru the tumbler, removed the used primer, cleaned the primer pockets and reprimed each piece. Last night I went thru and measured the length of each piece. According to the Lyman manual the spec on the shell length is .850 with a trim to length of .845 and the manual specifically states to not reduce the length below the trim to length of .845.
What I noticed when measuring was that the majority of the brass measured between .840 and .843. A couple even measured .838 - .839. I assume then that I should not use this brass that measured under .845 correct? Any help and advice is greatly appreciated.

You said you removed the primer, but did you lube/resize that brass or just use a deprimer die? If you haven't resized it, That would explain it.

I'll preface this by saying I'm a far more experienced rifle reloader than I am a auto-pistol reloader. The 40 S&W cartridge headspaces on the mouth, so technically it's quite important to measure brass length. That said, if I were in your situation, and I had resized the brass, I'd just shoot the stuff and not think twice; it should stretch out and I doubt you'll have any problem at all.

I've had .45 ACP brass measure short for a very long time, I don't reload .40 or any auto brass other than .45. I've never had that issue with revolver loads, but always with these. Auto's are supposed to headspace on the mouth (except semi-rimmed like 38Super) but I've never has to trim .45ACP brass. After 25+ years I've not had an issue, yet. Personally I blame gremlins.

I've loaded thousands upon thousands of .40 SW. I've never measured or trimmed a single one.

Same with 9mm.

Brass is so cheap and plentiful if one doesn't work out right during the firing process it gets thrown out.

I can't remember one not working out in .40 yet....

You are working too hard.

Just load em and shoot em.

Thanks for the responses. I deprimed by using the RCBS carbide sizer die.

Lol. Thanks for the info Fatal. As I said, I'm new to all this and want to be sure I'm going by the book as I'm learning. Don't want to make any catastrophic errors.

Spot on.

Gotta agree with TTH and fatal. I just shoot them until they crack, and then toss them.

That is why I like reloading pistol. I don't spend a bunch of time trimming cases.

I've loaded and shot thousands upon thousands of 9mm, .40, and .45 as well and never measured or trimmed a case. If it isn't cracked or dented up too bad and it chambers I shoot em.

Rifle cases and revolver cases are a whole different ball of wax.

I can't sleep so I figured I'd take a little time to help you further. Been bugging me....felt like I left you with 1/2 the information.

You said you don't want to make any catastrophic errors...as a new loader your biggest danger with pistol ammo is the powder. Pistols use very fast burning powder...flash powder...so it doesn't take a whole lot to make a round.

The danger is ....it is very easy to do a double charge. If your load calls for 4.8 grns of 231 or Titegroup, it's very easy to accidentally double that charge to 9.6...and it will easily fit inside the case. Usually it happens when you are tired or your mind is thinking about something else, and you grab a case that already has one charge in it, and you fill it again. Don't get distracted...

Generally, its a good idea to find a powder that fills the case up more so the odds of a double charge are reduced. If the case is almost full, and you charge it again...powder spills out everywhere and you know you goofed.

On the flip side, it's beneficial to find a powder that gives you what you want and uses the least amount. That means a pound of powder goes further and you can get an extra 50 rounds....

If you use and auto loader then you want a powder that won't splash out when you index, yet you want to reduce the odds of a double charge.....

As a beginner I recommend you do everything single stage. Get a decent board where you can line up your rounds for easy visual inspection. Any round that has more powder in it than the others will show up. Always double check, triple check and then make sure...just to be safe.

Unique is a really good powder to start with. It's a large flake and fills up the case pretty good. Titegroup is an awesome .40 cal powder.....but....

Be careful. A double charge of pistol powder can ruin your gun and your day....and possibly your hand and the shooters next to you.

It is the one thing you want to be focused on. If you are ever in doubt of a round, get an inertia bullet puller, take it apart and start over. Never have a round that is surrounded with doubt. It's not worth it....

Only thing with the cases is make sure the primer fits tight, and there are no cracks. Put most of your effort into metering and dispersing the powder...do that and you will avoid any catastrophic issues.

What Jeff says!

I always, WITHOUT FAIL, use a loading block and once all the cases are charged I inspect them using a flashlight to make sure they all appear to be equally charged. I do not in any way consider this to be an optional step! I do this whether I am charging with my UniFlow, my Chargemaster, or weighing and trickling. Other than making damn sure you're looking at your load data correctly, this is the most critical step in reloading and it has to be done right!!

Good info, guys.

Just curious, how many times can you fire the same piece of brass

Until it cracks....depends on the load....10x's + isn't unreasonable.

Thanks a million Fatal, this is exactly the info I was looking for. You've given me some piece of mind. Sounds like I'm on the right track. I have a RCBS single stage and a uniflow powder measure. I haven't been able to locate any powder yet but hoping to get Unique, Power Pistol or Bullseye.

Welcome, listen to what River Rider said as well with the flashlight. As you get more experienced....well keep the same proceedure for a life long experience of safe shooting.

All three powders will work, Bullseye is a little smokey especially with lead bullets and wax. Looks like you are shooting a smoke wagon. They really cleaned up Unique....shoots much cleaner these days...and Power Pistol is fantastic.

This is a powder burn rate chart...one of many....

http://www.hodgdon.com/burn-rate.html

The smaller the number, the faster the powder. If you are having a hard time finding powder you can safely use any powder from number 13-42. The higher the number the slower the powder and the more you will need so that is the safer range for you. There will be powders outside that range that will work, I'm just trying to show you the general range you want to stay in. it's like that with mid size rifle cartridges and big cartridges.

A lot of these powders double up as shotgun powders, in fact many of them started out as shotgun powders so when you got to buy them, don't worry if the can of powder is talking about shotguns only. You can safely use them in pistols. You will have 29 powders to choose from now to help get you started. Not sure what weight bullet you are going to use....you may want to list that so we can refine your list of powders.

My main reason for reloading is plinking at the range so im looking to stay with basic like 180 gr 40 S&W, 115 gr 9mm and 230 gr .45.
That chart is very helpful and will be printed and posted above the workbench.

RiverRider and Fatalwishes are great guys and spot on with the advice (as normal for them)

the powder manufactures have data online that are very valuable resources for selecting powders also

http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/

http://www.accuratepowder.com/load-data/

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp

Like Fatalwishes poined out there are a numerous powders that will work well for your needs

Sounds like you will be shooting semi autos....that can add additional complications.....

Some springs are tighter than others in some guns. The idea is to find an accurate comfortable load that cycles the action 100% every time. Otherwise you'll end up with rounds that won't eject, stove pipes.....and other problems.

I can tell you with 9mm 115 grn I use W231 and 5.1grns IS MAX load period. Anything more beats up the gun. I would start about 4.6 and work up until your gun functions properly.


What is cool about that load is the exact same load works great for .40 cal 180 grn and you don't have change powders or adjust your uniflow powder measure....

And low and behold that same powder load works in....the .45acp in 230 grn.....amazing huh? No powder change and no adjusting your powder measure.


There are better powders for .40 can and .45.... W231 is the perfect 9mm powder in my book...

But for just starting out....W231 using around 4.6-5.0 grns will load all three of those pistols without adjusting a thing in the powder dept and will cycle the actions.

It is a dangerous powder though.....very easy to double charge. Especially in the .40- .45 cases. If your guns are new with tight springs start at 4.7-4.8 and see how they run...

Fatal is onto the one powder routing. My powder of choice for 9,40,and 45 is Unique. It also saves money by buying one powder in bulk, as in 8lb kegs.

picked up 8 pounds of 231 last week. if only they had 8 pounds of power pistol instead of the single! agree that 8 pounders are better but right now finding a single pound of what you really want makes heavenly sounds in your ears as you hold it above your head in both hands in triumph. if the gods think its meant as an offering they are in for a surprise.

Thanks for all the input fellas. It is all very much appreciated. Sounds like my best bet will be to obtain some W231 combined with the flashlight method of double and triple checking proper load volume.
If I start at 5.0 grains for the .40...how many should I load and by what increment in grain weight do u progressively move up? One tenth grain at a time up to 5.3 or 5.4...20 or 25 rounds at each weight?

if you get a moveon you can pick up some 231 tonight at the store, bruce. otherwise ill trade out a pound. not like im ever going to load 13,500 38s.

What store?