Tired of spending an arm and a leg for Yamalube! So I am wondering what type or brand of oil you run in your ATV or UTV. If there is a big difference I will stick with the expensive stuff from the dealer. I dont see why a good synthetic from any autopart store wont work just as good. Whats your opinion??

Look in your owners manual to get the viscosity range they recommend for your climate. Get that visc range oil from Walmart or NAPA or whoever and put it in your Yamaha. Personally, I prefer Castrol 10W-40 or Castrol 20W-50. You don't need synthetic, and a lot of what's sold as synthetic isn't really 100% synthetic anyway (Mobil 1 is, however). And you sure don't need to pay too much for Yamalube. I just use the Castrol and I change oil and all fluids once a year (Springtime), and have been doing so since I got the first Honda 3wheeler.

Motorcycle oil has always been expensive compared to Pennzoil, Quaker, Castrol. Have used these oils with no problems.

Belt driven Yamaha's have a wet clutch setup. Make sure you use oil that compensates for that. If not you will burn them up. What works in 603Country's Honda will not work in your Yamaha.

I don't have a Honda these days, I have a Yamaha Big Bear and I use Castrol 10W-40. You don't really think that Yamaha makes motor oil do ya? Probably it's made by Chevron or Valvoline to the Yamaha spec, which is highly likely to be the same specifications met by most motor oil makers. Like I said, look in the owners manual and see what viscosity range they call for and use any good oil.

That said, there is a possibility that I could be wrong and that newer Yamaha ATV's demand a different motor oil spec. Even if they do, that specification will be outlined in the owner's manual. Buy any oil that meets or exceeds the spec and you are in fine shape.

If the ATV is still under warranty and if using any oil other than Yamalube during the warranty period voids the warranty, then use Yamalube till the warranty runs out.

Again sir you are wrong. Make sure that the motor oil you use is wet clutch or jaso-ma certified and you will be good to go.

Castrol

kleinwild, if Yamaha ATV's need a motor oil with specific performance requirements, the specs for that oil will be detailed in the owner's manual, such as the JASO MA requirement. Read the owners manual, write down the specs, go to NAPA or whoever and buy oil that meets that spec. It ain't rocket science. It's just plain old high quality petroleum based (or synthetic, if specified) motor oil. If the ATV is brand new, some folks suggest that you don't run synthetic till the engine has a minimum amount of run time. The synthetic may not allow all parts to work in and seat properly.

I've used Castrol 10W-40 or 20W-50 in my Yamaha for 12 years and it has never burned a drop of oil or in any way failed to run properly. I do not know if the Castrol has a JASO MA labeling. If it does, great. If not, then I suspect that the automotive friction reducing additives, which would then be in the oil, are not an ATV engine killer.

Just read the owner's manual and buy what they say, and it does not have to be Yamalube.

I have the rhino 660 2005 model. It should be a wet clutch set up. With that said what do y'all suggest? It is just a total pain to drive all the way to dealership for me. I really appreciate the input!

Buy a 10W-40 petroleum based motor oil that has JASO MA on the label. That'll work for you for sure, and it'll make kleinwild happy (and me too). I haven't looked at any oil cans since this thread got started, but the newest oils of highest quality should have the latest and greatest friction reducing additives, which are to give you and me even higher mileage. What kleinwild was adamant about was that if you have a wet clutch ATV, you don't want the oil with that new friction reducing additive. Motor Oils without that additive will be labeled JASO MA somewhere on the list of specifications that the oil meets. Again, I haven't looked at the oil bottles and the specs they meet, so I can't recommend a specific one. Just go read labels and look for JASO MA. I'm going to the barn right now to read labels on my remaining cans of oil.

All this info is available through your good friend and mine, mr Google.

Highly appreciate the input from kleinwild and 603country and everyone else. It has made me a lot more informed of what to look for.

i run drag bikes with wet clutches on whatever car oil i please. no problems, currently making 270 hp on one bike, atv's dont make near enough hp to worry about wet clutch and oil.
run whatever you darn please and just replace at least once a year.
the difference is motorcycles have the motor oil being worked in the transmission and them gears tend to shear the the oil molecules faster so motorcycle spefic oil doesnt break down as fast as car oil, just use whatever and change regularly.

I use royal pirple in my bike

lol thats crazy... iv used 10w 30 in just about everything gas and never had a problem....

Got a 1997 Polaris Explorer 500 I bought used in 2000. Have ran Chevron, Delo 400, 15/40 in it since the day I bought it. Actually run this in everything from my lawn mowed to my 100 horse tractor. Never had a problem. May be a little heavy, but like I said, never had an issue.

Always wondered how that would do lol pretty cool

A day late and a dollar short as usual but the Rhino does NOT have a wet clutch. It is belt drive with a centrifugal DRY clutch and you do not need an oil for wet clutches. Just in case anybody else finds this thread.

Sometimes it is worth the headache to just buy enough oil for 8 or 10 oil changes at once if it is hard to get to the dealer and you prefer to run their oil. If, and I stress IF, you run an oil that turns out to not be compatible and damage is done to the engine, guess who is ultimately responsible for the repair cost? You are, not all the ones recommending different oils. And I'm not saying any of these recommendations are wrong, just that they all can't be right.

I run Honda GN-4 in my 65hp Banshee. Buy it in larger quantities and it should be a little cheaper.

Good point SMH 264. I got a little paranoid and went with the yamalube. Got great input from everyone. But its good to know I dont really have to go through the trouble of driving all the way to the dealership. Thanks for all the input!

Always used Mobil 1 Vtwin 20w-50 in my bikes. A synthetic oil made specifically for bikes with wet clutches. Autozone carries it but haven't seen it too many other places - and it is not with the regular oil, usually off by itself. Also as far as I have ever read, the Rhino has a wet clutch just like the Grizzlys.

All of my toys get Mobile 1 synthetic when possible. I have never had a problem with it.

Neither the rhino nor the grizzly has a wet clutch.

Bowslayer, I am not a mechanic but I was told by the service manager at a Yamaha dealership that the 2004 660 Grizzlys have both, a wet clutch and a dry clutch. I have seen the dry clutch when I had it serviced about 6 months ago. So how does someone find out who is correct?

Grizzly has both wet and dry clutches.