just bought a elite hunter bow, 60# but i dont know what arrows to use, size ,grains, or broadheads? I will be hunting hogs and deer with this bow? Any suggestion?

Draw length and pounds the bow is set at then go to gold tip web site or carbon express and look it up. If you are normal draw at 60 gr 5575 should do it, they will need to be cut, or something like a carbon express in a 4560 29 inch off the shelf. I have not bought ce in a while their numbers could have changes. Based on you experience I would use rage 100 grain. A pro shop is always a good place to start. You get good equipment and advise to go with it

Buy from a shop or individual? Hard to say not know DL. Shop should be able to get you set up.

i'd suggest taking a year off and just practice with it b4 you make a post about a bad shot and a wounded animal out running through texas somewhere.
take yer budget and go arrow shopping. the bow shop will steer ya in the right direction for $$ and spine.
get some magnus snuffers...125g.....6 to a box..use 3 for hunting and 3 for practice...$35 anywhere. (just go ahead and use all 6 this year for practice and next year get a new pack.)
i wouldnt go shooting the magnus at a stop bag, cause they will just sail on through. get ya a good block made for bh's. practicing with field tips is a set up for failure. practice with what you will be hunting with!

Well I guess I'm a failure cause I tune my bow proper and practice constantly with field tips only and can screw any 100 grain head on and they fly true. It's about tuning the bow, if BH and field points don't hit the same spot then you got an issue somewhere.

aerodynamics has nothing to do with it you say?...what about weight of either or? yer kidding right? i might maybe would possibly agree with you at 20 yards or less, maybe

Deer season is almost over with, but don't sweat it. The reason I asked earlier is that if you went to a shop, then you should have been set up properly with draw length and such, and I know when I worked at a pro shop, we would get people set up correctly with arrows and such.

Just a FYI. I know several guys that came in with bows they bought used, not understanding about draw lengths and such, and wound up with a bow that was either to short or to long. I have a friend that came by the house one day with his bow and I checked it out. He had been shooting it for a month and I soon discovered, basically his first shot, that he was shooting a bow with a 25" draw length, and he is a 29" draw. Needless to say, it cost him about $100 to get cams for the bow and new arrows, as the arrows he was shooting would now be to short.

I also know guys that are hunters, been rifle hunting for many years, and they came in a week or two before bow season, bought a new bow, got an hour lesson (hitting bulls at 20 yards within 15 minutes) and then would go hunt the season opener. They knew about deer hunting and were able to connect opening day, and took several more animals with their bow.

Practice shooting from similar setup that you would hunt. Rangefinder is a great addition for a new bow hunter. I use 100 G5 T3 broadheads, that come with practice tips that fly like the T3 broadheads. Unless your bow is 100% tuned most practice tips don't fly like the broadhead. Good luck!

More than likely your bow has modules to change the draw length. I don't know alot about the elites but I do know there good bows and that will help you more than anything. If your curious about yur draw length get a tape measure your wingspan and divide it by 2.5. Then you can check your mods and see if it fits. Your arrow size will depend on your draw length and the poundage. When you get those matched up you'll be ready to sling some arrows. I would suggest shooting a 100gr (there easy to find broadheads in that size anywhere). Another tip is consistency is key make sure to find a good anchor point, make sure your peep is adjusted right and get the best sights you can afford ( you will thank me later). If you have any questions you can pm me I can help you with anything you need. Almost forgot get you a good release that too will help. Once you get going feel free to post any questions on here somebody is always willing to help.

Not to overwhelm you but get a good drop away rest (QAD!!!) Also remember when you go to sight it in, it does not sight in like a rifle if your hitting low you move you sights to where the arrow is hitting. Low move down, hitting to left sights go left so and so forth. Arrows will be your choice there all good now so just pick what you can afford and won't break the bank to get more.

I second the drop away rests. They will help you get on target even if you shake after you release the arrow. Pro shops that deal with strictly archery is the way to go. They live and breathe it and will be up to date on all the new technology and will have some knowledge about the bow you purchased. Plus if it is too long or too short then they could order the right clable and wheel set up to make it fit to you instead of biting the purchase. Hopefully you bought it from a shop so you can return it if it doesn't fit you. I would skip out on deer season this year and stick with going for hogs in the spring after getting in some practice time and working on your set up first. Go with a descent priced carbon arrow and try out different broadheads to see which one is good for your set up. Muzzy's are a good broadhead that shoots pretty good out of most set ups. The great point on them will definitely penetrate hogs like butter. Rangefinders like the other member said are a great investment for hunting with and placing out your target for practicing and zeroing in your sight. Make sure you paper tune the bow for optimum performance. Any pro shop with an indoor range will help you out and teach you this method. You could also look on the internet on how to do it. Shoot with the set up you will be hunting with too. In other words if you have your quiver attached to the bow when hunting then shoot it like that all the time. If you get a hip quiver then use that all the time. If you are going to hunt from a tree stand then practice from the stand. Climb up to your stand with a rope attached to your bow and pull it up to the stand after you get up, strap yourself in and sit down for safety. Get a stabilizer that is right for your bow and a wrist strap too. This will do wonders in your shooting. Kisser buttons are good so you consistantly nock your bow string in the same manner for consistant shooting. A zero peep sight is also a great thing for helping you out in aligning your sight from the bow string to your bow sight (just like the sights on a gun). Hope this helps you out.

I just recently got a diamond outlaw bow, 29.5 inch draw 65lb, I went with the GT expedition hunter arrows 39.99 with 100g muzzy broadheads, guy said that that was a pretty decent setup for the price

Not a reliable way to measure DL. May get you "close," but close only counts in hand grenades. When I did this it shows that I shold be shooting a DL that is 1.5 inches linger than my DL

I have never seen it not work but what do I know only work at an archery shop.

Yah muzzy's are really good BH's for the price and go right through bone with no problems. I have a really short draw length and am left handed so when I shot compound it was hard to find a good bow in my length. You have a pretty standard draw length which is a good thing. I now shoot traditional and use magnum bh's which fly good for my set up. Places back home used to let you try out all the bh's before buying them which was awesome. Any places like that around here?

Wow, I use to also. What we did was actually used one of our demo bows, Mission Craze/Riot were the last couple, and do it that way. Like I said, when I tried that formula based on me, it was wrong, and I've seen it wrong on other people as well. Why chance it?