My 25 is not getting gas to the plugs. I think the float in the carb is stuck. My question is if I take the screw out of the bowl on the carb and fill it with carb cleaner will this fix my problem and unstick the float or am I wasting my time and need to go ahead and tear into it any way?

You need to tear it down and clean it out really well. The cleaner is only a temp fix at best. I just rebuilt my boat carb, two four wheelers and still need to do 4 chainsaws. It is the ethanol. I bought a gallon of carb cleaner. It comes with a parts strainer. You just drop the parts in the bucket and leave them over night. Come back the next day with an air nozzle on an air hose and clean them really well. I like to dip them in anyother solution to stop the chemical reaction on the metal partsd after they have soaked. I can't believe the engines were running after seeing what I saw in them.

I cant tell you how many times ive had a carbed motor not run right because it was left with fuel in it and just dump a heavy shot of sea foam in it or just run it and it clears up.

If its getting no fuel at all then yes tear down is probably gonna be what you need, but some people dive into it too eagerly.

matt

X2

Thanks Wayne!!!! I was afraid that's where I was headed. Looks like I'll be in the garage Saturday instead if on the water.

Yea ethanol sucks...stabil is your friend.

Yea. I run stabil but still got a sticking float.

Take them apart, keeping everything oriented and lined up in the order you took them apart. Take all rubber and plastic off and set to the side. Take your your needle and jets and carb body and whatever other metal components you got off...one carb at a time, keeping the other(s) oriented the way you took them apart.

Now go to autozone and buy "CHEM-DIP" by the same guys that make b-12. It comes in a paint can with a basket in it. Dip all the parts (one carb at a time) in the can, for about 2 hrs. Remove, spray off with b-12 carb cleaner. Re-install, and run it like you're mad at it.

That is what I used. Don't put plastic in it. Run red and the blue stabil.

I have a water separator (at academy) the gas line goes through and use stabilizer. I have had no problems since then.

You can still buy non ethenal gas, check out pure gas on the net and it will show were you can get it. Greenville,gainsville and others have it. I would call and confirm that they still sell non ethenal gas before I start driving.

Just did the same thing to mine back in October. Ran fine last time she was in the water, next trip 8 days later she would get gas into the bowl. Of course that took a good hour to troubleshoot predawn on the bay.

It ended up being the valve the float pushes on was stuck, not the float itself.

I'm not that ticked off, it was very clean inside, and that's the first time I have removed the carb from that engine in 15 years. I run blue stabil religiously. Mine was a simple job, an hour max if you know where it all is. Much simpler than many of the other repairs I've done on her.

check the vent on your gas tank too

I've done carbs on Merc and a Johnson in that horsepower range. It was acutally pretty easy to do and I didn't even need to buy any parts to do it. The main thing to remember is when you go to remove the idle adjustment screws/needles screw them all the way in first and keep track of exactly how many turns you had to turn to bottom them out and write it down. When you start to reassmble the carb and put these screws back in, screw them all the way back in until they bottom out and then back them out the number of turns you wrote down. It should run perfect when you go to start it. Both times I have done this both motors started on the first pull and idle like new....It is very important that you get the carb clean because a dirty carb can lead to a lean mixture melt down AKA burnt pistons......