|
Forums46
Topics539,014
Posts9,744,098
Members87,136
| |
Most Online25,604
Feb 12th, 2024
|
|
|
 Mud motor questions
#3545708
09/06/12 12:41 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733
ArkansasTraveler
OP
Tracker
|
|
OP
Tracker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733 |
Alright fellas, what kinda questions do I need to ask when looking at a mud motor for sale?
How many hours is getting to be too many?
Anything to look for, anything to avoid?
What if the guy cant take me out on the water with it? Anyway to hook up ear muffs and see if it works fine?
Thanks in advance, I just have no experience on purchasing a mud motor.
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: ArkansasTraveler]
#3545734
09/06/12 12:48 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,075
dav42070
Pro Tracker
|
|
Pro Tracker
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,075 |
If your wanting to get away from the crowds get an airboat. I seee more mm at the ramp now than outboards.
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: ArkansasTraveler]
#3545788
09/06/12 01:02 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 749
Homey da Clown
CTJ
|
|
CTJ
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 749 |
Hours are important but don't tell the whole story * check for any structural cracks in the transom mount, swivel frame, lower unit or skeg. * ask for service records--oil, fliter, plugs and grease/oil in lower unit/outdrive should have been regulary scheduled maintenance. As well as grease zerks on all swivel points. * prop condition--look for hairline cracks, worn or peeled metal on leading blade edges. measure prop against what is stamped on prop. A good prop should still have plenty of cup and diameter left. * check muffler for cracks that may have formed on exhaust flanges or support brackets. * check all electrical connections and all elec features ( elec clutch, power trim,) if applicable *Check reverse mechanism ( reservoir, hydraulic lines, calipers, rotation gear) if applicable *inspect overall condition of block--look for corrosion, cracks or signs of heat stress. High corrosion on blocks suggests it has been in salt/brackish water alot. If that is the case then the elec connentions may be corroded as well. Dialectric grease on all elec connections is your friend in salt water ,btw *There are no "earmuffs" with a mud motor because it is air-cooled, not water cooled so there is no water pickup. * lastly, ask to take motor out for a spin. If seller is hesitant, there's your sign  Anyone that buys a used mm without first running it gets what they deserve. In the 8 years I have been a dealer I have had several folks come to me with their new used mm ( of all brands) for help. They were told it was a "screamer" and no issues....yea, right Good luck with your search and don't hesitate to pm or call me( my cell is in my sig line) if you have questions on a motor you have found for sale.
  R & B Outdoors Mud Buddy motors/accessories Gator Trax boats (512) 826-6200 www.rboutdoors.com
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: Homey da Clown]
#3546574
09/06/12 04:00 AM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733
ArkansasTraveler
OP
Tracker
|
|
OP
Tracker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733 |
OK so assuming the seller has the motor off of the boat and isnt able to take it out, would I be able to crank it and rev it up enough to tell if it is working properly?
Also it is my belief that this type of motor would be something easy to perform maintenance or repairs on, is this true or what?
Thanks Homey, your information is very useful!
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: ArkansasTraveler]
#3546698
09/06/12 05:10 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 749
Homey da Clown
CTJ
|
|
CTJ
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 749 |
No...a motor can still seem fine when running in the driveway, on a boat or not. But it is when you put the motor under load where the deceit can sometimes rise to the top. A motor can run and seem to run fine on one cylinder. Drop that prop in the water, swat the throttle and it will fall on it's face. Only way to tell for sure if a motor is worth it is to FULLY inspect it, crank it and run it on a boat. I would not advise anyone to buy a used motor without first taking it out. Seen and heard of many a feller highly pizzed off at themselves becasue they bought basically sight unseen or did not run it first. YOu know the old cliche', " if it's to good to be true, ........" Ask if he'll let you mount it on your boat and go run it. Your dollar, your call.
Again, call me if you have any questions
R & B Outdoors Mud Buddy motors/accessories Gator Trax boats (512) 826-6200 www.rboutdoors.com
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: Homey da Clown]
#3548556
09/06/12 10:22 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733
ArkansasTraveler
OP
Tracker
|
|
OP
Tracker
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 733 |
Yea thats kinda what I was afraid of. Thanks alot
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: Homey da Clown]
#3548584
09/06/12 10:31 PM
|
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 28,032
Navasot
Hollywood
|
|
Hollywood
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 28,032 |
Hours are important but don't tell the whole story * check for any structural cracks in the transom mount, swivel frame, lower unit or skeg. * ask for service records--oil, fliter, plugs and grease/oil in lower unit/outdrive should have been regulary scheduled maintenance. As well as grease zerks on all swivel points. * prop condition--look for hairline cracks, worn or peeled metal on leading blade edges. measure prop against what is stamped on prop. A good prop should still have plenty of cup and diameter left. * check muffler for cracks that may have formed on exhaust flanges or support brackets. * check all electrical connections and all elec features ( elec clutch, power trim,) if applicable *Check reverse mechanism ( reservoir, hydraulic lines, calipers, rotation gear) if applicable *inspect overall condition of block--look for corrosion, cracks or signs of heat stress. High corrosion on blocks suggests it has been in salt/brackish water alot. If that is the case then the elec connentions may be corroded as well. Dialectric grease on all elec connections is your friend in salt water ,btw *There are no "earmuffs" with a mud motor because it is air-cooled, not water cooled so there is no water pickup. * lastly, ask to take motor out for a spin. If seller is hesitant, there's your sign Anyone that buys a used mm without first running it gets what they deserve. In the 8 years I have been a dealer I have had several folks come to me with their new used mm ( of all brands) for help. They were told it was a "screamer" and no issues....yea, right Good luck with your search and don't hesitate to pm or call me( my cell is in my sig line) if you have questions on a motor you have found for sale. askin him to take it out is the best advise you can get. That will let you know if he trust the motor or not or see if he will run a compression check for you
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: Homey da Clown]
#3548668
09/06/12 11:00 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,928
FowlDreams
Extreme Tracker
|
|
Extreme Tracker
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,928 |
Hours are important but don't tell the whole story * check for any structural cracks in the transom mount, swivel frame, lower unit or skeg. * ask for service records--oil, fliter, plugs and grease/oil in lower unit/outdrive should have been regulary scheduled maintenance. As well as grease zerks on all swivel points. Also you can personally check all of this stuff when you see the motor, and I'll add in to check the air filter too * prop condition--look for hairline cracks, worn or peeled metal on leading blade edges. measure prop against what is stamped on prop. A good prop should still have plenty of cup and diameter left. * check muffler for cracks that may have formed on exhaust flanges or support brackets. * check all electrical connections and all elec features ( elec clutch, power trim,) if applicable *Check reverse mechanism ( reservoir, hydraulic lines, calipers, rotation gear) if applicable *inspect overall condition of block--look for corrosion, cracks or signs of heat stress. High corrosion on blocks suggests it has been in salt/brackish water alot. If that is the case then the elec connentions may be corroded as well. Dialectric grease on all elec connections is your friend in salt water ,btw *There are no "earmuffs" with a mud motor because it is air-cooled, not water cooled so there is no water pickup. * lastly, ask to take motor out for a spin. If seller is hesitant, there's your sign Anyone that buys a used mm without first running it gets what they deserve. In the 8 years I have been a dealer I have had several folks come to me with their new used mm ( of all brands) for help. They were told it was a "screamer" and no issues....yea, right Good luck with your search and don't hesitate to pm or call me( my cell is in my sig line) if you have questions on a motor you have found for sale.
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: TrackQuack]
#3548791
09/06/12 11:52 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,651
mnsherick
Pro Tracker
|
|
Pro Tracker
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,651 |
So Homey, how about that MB HD5500 MAG? Decent rig?
-Matt
|
|
|
|
Re: Mud motor questions
[Re: mnsherick]
#3548892
09/07/12 12:32 AM
|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 357
R.T.
Bird Dog
|
|
Bird Dog
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 357 |
Beware of used MMs with performance mods as well
|
|
|
Moderated by bigbob_ftw, CCBIRDDOGMAN, Chickenman, Derek, DeRico, Duck_Hunter, hetman, jeh7mmmag, JustWingem, kmon11, kry226, kwrhuntinglab, Payne, pertnear, rifleman, sig226fan (Rguns.com), Superduty, TreeBass, txcornhusker
|
![[Linked Image]](http://i.imgur.com/3nCg32d.gif)
