First off these plans were ripped off a member of THF and the original blind build and pics can be found on that site however.

This was our take on the blind and made a few modifications along the way. Blind is based on the premises of building the base attaching the walls then going back and framing. To save money/weight 2x4s are ripped into 2x2s that nearly all of the construction is based on. Instead of screws that tear up exterior walls that speed up the rotting process glue and 18 gauge brads are used except in a few specific locations.

The original design used exterior plywood windows and interior plexiglass windows in the interest of saving money unless we can find plexiglass super cheap we are going to make some light screen windows for the inside but for now will leave the inside blank.



here are the original plans. One thing that changed was we went with a solid roof to seal things up a bit better and we used all of the scraps for exterior windows.



Picked up this saw for the build and it make a number of parts of the built much easier being able to cut a 4x4 or a 2x12 quickly is great. Got it for next to nothing used and it didn't skip a beat.



Base was to be built first, used treated 2x6's for the exterior lag bolted on top and will be bolted to the blind risers I built.



The large clamps helped keep things square. My dad had them from some cabinet work he did a while back.



We used 2x6s and 2x4s for cross pieces and used metal hangers to attach them. Hindsight probably would have just screwed them but we probably get a little extra strength and flexibility with the hangers.



First opps but we couldn't undo it. Planned to have the boards 2x4 then 2x6 staggered but we used the wrong hanger. We did put the door on the double 2x6 side thinking it would get a bit more abuse.



Layed down the 4x6 sheet of plywood glued and nailed down.



Cut the two skinny sides to a 4+ degree slop then cut out our door. I argued and we decided on a 30" door as it seemed easier to enter with a gun, backpack etc.



framed the wall. Made sure to cut the tops of the boards at 4.2ish degrees to match the slope of the plywood top.



Skipped a couple steps. It was hot and we were getting tired so we framed the second wall. Prepared a 30"x9" window were the ledge would be at 40" but did not cut the hole for the window out yet. We are all tall but this blind is at the top of a hill looking down so a little lower worked well for our cheap office chairs. All walls are built with 3" of plywood to hang over and to be attached to the base. We glued and attached the walls and will help added in the side window frames to hold everything together.

Now feel bad for skipping a couple more pictures but I'll try to fill in. The original plan calls for attaching all of the plywood then framing our everything. We were thinking about building walls first then attaching at the farm but we changed mid go. Hindsight probably would have just attached walls first and call it done.

We tried to attached the full sheet and half sheet of plywood at the walls. It was very difficult to do and didn't get it nearly as square as we'd like but we still got it sealed up completely.

Hindsight we should have laid the blind on its side and attached the plywood that way but when its 105-110 you don't always think so clearly.



This gives you a better idea of the end result. At this point all interior framing is complete and all walls are attached. Because we have a seem where the 2' and 4' pieces run together we ran a rib there to seal things up and provide extra support. The location we are hunting has a feeder down a small lane on the skinny side and then it sits in a cleared pipeline so we mounted the door on the side opposite our feeder as that is the easier access point.

One note it is important to rip the front and rear top corners at the same 4.5 degrees so when you attach the plywood roof it will seat up nicely.



Got a little fancy with the roof ribs but I wanted to be able to shoot 2.5" nails to hold the ribs in place so I had to offset the middle piece. The original designs didn't mention longer nails or screws when you have T joints of 2x2s but hitting it with a 16 gauge 2.5" seemed to do just the trick.



While I was working on the roof my dad was starting to cut out the windows with the router. Drilled a hole in the corner then ran a cutting bit around the window sill.



Leaves a really nice cleaned edge and should seal up nice.



While we were working on exterior windows mom got involved with painting.
Just primer so far but it was a great help while we were busy on the side.



Can't say a got a great picture to explain the windows but I'll try to tell you exactly what you are seeing in the pictures. We were using an older style cabinet hinge with a 3/8" offset that worked great with the plywood. We started with a 12"x28" piece of plywood to cover everything up nice. Then we ran a small strip so we could properly attach the cabinet hinge. Worried about enough weight/warping I added a piece of 2x4. For some reason this pulled the window out slightly and it didn't sit flush so I took and old cabinet closing device and attached it to the corner out of the way. So now even in the heaviest winds the windows will lock down well but still open easily and quietly from the inside.



We are probably doing to use a small piece of paracord to loop up and around to hold the windows out in a nice shaded orientation and possibly to protect from the rain if that ever happens.



View as it sits right now. Still have plenty of painting to do. We hung the door which didn't go too smoothly but we made it happen.

Still need to finish priming. Finish out the trim work in regards to shelves/rests etc and a inner frame to seal the door from the flying bugs.

We will carpet the floor and window sills after everything gets primed caulked and painted.

Will update as I finish this mess up this week.

very nice

ok when do i pick it up

Texaspazzman on the forum builds these exact blinds to sell for a very reasonable price for as much work as goes into these.

Going to try these for window holders, they are tension adjustable but I can't try them out till I finish painting tomorrow.



Windows and doors getting painted.



1x6 running across the skinny side. That side will face the feeder the longer sides both watching a pipeline. Didn't want to lose space on the 4' width. Also a small shot of the corner shelves that I cut to fit pretty cleanly.



Ceiling Gussets just being a copy cat and because I could.









Blacking out the inside.

Great job!!!

Thanks guys hoping to have it all finished tomorrow

Looking forward to seeing the finished product. I like the windows on all sides. Good height. My cousin has a similar blind I've used in the past. He had his windows opening to the inside so not to spook anything watching. And he uses Plexi rather than wood windows. Do you have any opinion on either or a reason you chose wood? I also really like the height of the blind and the black interior. Very well done. Do you have any more pics of how you mounted the door?

I would have got with the guy on here "thehunted" I think and bought windows from him.

I hate messing with the plexi myself, I always end up cracking it or something.

Very nice build.

sexy

Nice blind Scot, If you paid yourself $15 an hour to build and paint, going and buying the materials, and the cost of the materials how much would you have in it ??

Looks good scot, and to get to build it with your dad, even better.

Nearly $300 in parts with the metal and paint. My dad and I put 15 or so hours in it then I put another 10-15 on my own. You could cut some corners here and there and have only about $200 in it total.

I bet if we did it again we could knock it out in one long day, a few times we were planning for a bit before actually getting things done. And it was 105-108 when we were building so everything was a bit slower.