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question about new brass #2065509 01/28/11 01:53 AM
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KillinSwede Offline OP
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.223 Remington brass- I got a sack full. Do i need to run it through a resizing die? I'm having problems getting a crimp on it that will keep Nosler Partition 60gr bullets from being so loose I can move them with my fingers. going into an AR-15


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065529 01/28/11 01:58 AM
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helomech Offline
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Yes you have to resize it that is why your bullet is loose.


Re: question about new brass [Re: helomech] #2065539 01/28/11 02:00 AM
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can I retract the deprimer so I can leave the new primers in when I resize them? I have put primers in all of them too.


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065555 01/28/11 02:03 AM
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noylj Offline
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Yes you can.
Have ever read a reloading manual?


Re: question about new brass [Re: noylj] #2065562 01/28/11 02:05 AM
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yes- I have read the Hornady, Lyman and ABC's of Reloading. I have successfully reloaded some once fired brass but am new and figured it was spec'd out because it was new..


Re: question about new brass [Re: helomech] #2065589 01/28/11 02:11 AM
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You want to use caution reloading for AR's. The brass should be full length sized and should chamber with no resistance at all. Your AR has a floating firing pin, the force of the bolt slamming forward to chamber a round will allow the firing pin to contact the primer. If you chamber a round and then remove it you may see a dimple in the primer. Primers must be seated fully, and hopefully slightly below flush with the case head. It is suggested to use mil-spec primers or primers that have a harder cup. There are primer pocket uniformers that square up the primer pocket and allow the primer to seat slightly below flush. There are case gauges that allow you to insert sized rounds to insure the round is sized properly. If you are sizing the case properly, the neck should also be sized to hold a bullet without having to apply a crimp. I do not believe Nosler partions have a crimp grove.


Re: question about new brass [Re: rifle.30cal] #2065609 01/28/11 02:16 AM
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KillinSwede Offline OP
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rifle.30cal- you are correct from what I am reading and hearing- I am using CCI 400 hard primers. I have been checking my reloads (the first batch from once-fired brass that went through the whole process) and they are chambering well. the Noslers don't have a cannelure so when they weren't staying put (loose in case) I figured I needed a crimp which got me wondering if I was able to forego resizing the new brass. I made a stupid error here by not doing each step assuming new brass didn't need it- that's why I asked..


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065670 01/28/11 02:28 AM
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All in the learning process Mr. Swede. I would also assume new brass did not need sized. The safe thing to do is develope a routine for handling your reloading process and stick to it. One of the Wilson case gauges can be used to drop each piece of brass in and immediately see that it is sized correctly and the proper length. Also know that AR's are very hard on brass. It is wise to separate into lots and limit the loading to no more than five per case. The case will stretch in the case head area and can separate rendering your rifle inoperative with the forward part of the case stuck in the chamber. The Wilson gauge also allows you to set up your sizing die properly so you are not overworking the brass by sizing it too much. Case trimming is also a must.


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065692 01/28/11 02:34 AM
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I use Nosler Partition 60gr bullets in my AR w/o crimping.


Re: question about new brass [Re: rifle.30cal] #2065694 01/28/11 02:34 AM
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The conventional wisdom has said that it is not necessary to resize new brass, but as is so often the case it just ain't so as evidenced by your situation. I always resize new brass on account of case mouths getting dinged up and out of round in the packaging.

If you take the depriming stem out of your die, you can unthread the expander ball and pull the decapping pin, put the expander back on, then put the stem back in your die so that you can run the expander button through the cases when you resize. Just make sure you don't try to run the expander too deep because you can bend the entire stem. Be careful that you do not get any case lube down in the case that might deactivate those primers, and you should be fine. Be sure and carefully wipe the lube off those cases after resizing. I hope you don't have more than just a handful to deal with. This can be a pain.



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Re: question about new brass [Re: RiverRider] #2065921 01/28/11 03:31 AM
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It gets pretty frustrating here in the garage when this stuff doesn't work and there is no one to ask why- Live and learn: I bought new Remington brass when I went back to Cabela's to pick some stuff up. I trimmed the cases for length and then put primers in the new brass (.223) without running them through a sizing die. After I measured and poured powder into 56 cartridges for a test I am going to do with 60gr Nosler partitions tomorrow at the range, I tried to seat a bullet in an unloaded cartridge. I was having all sorts of trouble with the bullet moving. That's when I posted my first question here tonight. I poured the powder out of the loaded cartridges and resized all 100 new cases. After getting that step done it was really easy to seat the bullet correctly and everything appears to be working. dummy rounds cycled perfectly through my AR so I am ready to measure out the powder charges again. Thanks to those that helped and to those that scoffed too.


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065955 01/28/11 03:38 AM
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Don't be hard on yourself...they say good judgment arises out of experience, and much experience arises out of poor judgment. Learning can be like that. You're learning, sometimes by asking (the easy way) and sometimes by just, well, learning. up



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Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065967 01/28/11 03:40 AM
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Swede- I did the same thing with when I first loaded my Beowulf, loaded 10 cases they wouldn't chamber... so even New brass gets resized, then trimmed,primed, then loaded. Keep going, you will be a master relouder in no time.



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Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2065982 01/28/11 03:44 AM
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A good rule of thumb to follow with new brass is to always resize, then trim, and clean or tumble the cases before loading to remove any oil used in the forming process. I had a few squibs with some brand new brass that I had resized and trimmed only. The powder would spill out into the action and there'd be sort of a melted plug of powder in the case. I finally figured out there was oil in the bottom of the new cases, presumably from the flash hole punching process. I also uniform my flash holes with new brass.



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Re: question about new brass [Re: toolman] #2067958 01/28/11 09:28 PM
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Swede - Since I have been commenting on several of your threads, don't feel bad. A few months back when I first started I had a thread on exactly the same question. I thought I could just neck size, but I was wrong. Too much variance in case sizes.



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Re: question about new brass [Re: htharp] #2068247 01/28/11 10:36 PM
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so many variables and they all seem really important at this time.


Re: question about new brass [Re: KillinSwede] #2068345 01/28/11 11:04 PM
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"Experience, the ability to reconixze a mistake the next time you make it"

We all learn from them and hopefully someone has learned fron your experience as well Swede. I learned that leasson at least 30 year ago and so far have not repeated it smile

Have fun wiht your reloading and ask when you have a question, you know by now some answers are good info and others could fertilize a large garden but keep the questions comming when you have them.



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Re: question about new brass [Re: kmon11] #2069070 01/29/11 02:58 AM
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