As soon as a turned 18, I went to the gunstore and bought a marlin glenfield model 60(made between the years 1966 and 1982). it was old and rusty but I was proud of the gun, so I tried to reblue the rifle and I didnt have ANY idea what I was doing, so I ended up with a cruddy finish and I gave up on it. Well here it is, 7 years later and I decided I'm going to finish the project lol. all I really have is the barrel and receiver, I ordered all the other parts and am waiting for them to come in (with the cost of parts I coulda just bought a new one, but this has sentimental value and I plan on passing down to my kids). I ordered a synthetic stock, and some new sites for it, and we're going to duracoat it, heres what I got to work with now, I will put more pictures when its done if this catches anyones interest.

this is ALL I have to work with right now.. all the stuff is on its way. I had to get all my screws and other stuff from 5 different places but I got it all. I ordered these sites and I wanted to know if anyone knew if these were any good, I like these style of sites a lot http://www.tech-sights.com/marlin.htm

Marlin model 60 was my first gun & I still have it (my dad put a 4x15 tasco on it & I later removed it and opted for iron sites).

They are fun & I've taken countless numbers of squirrels while growing up in AL.

Good luck on the project

thank you sir, I am really lookin forward to gettin this little gun all fixed up. can't wait till my kids are old enough to pass it down. and I am happy it wasn't missing very many small pieces.

Good luck on the project and be sure and post more pics when you are done!! Those Marlins are pretty accurate rifles!!!

the model 60 was my first gun as well I just passed it down to my 8 yo nephew for Christmas and he loves it. post pictures when done

I just got dont sanding it all down and removing all the finish and any rust that was on the barrel. a few people have told me its just a crappy cheap rifle, but its MY crappy cheap rifle! just waitin on my parts..
oh an also, does anyone know how the rear iron site comes off of these? I was tryin to figure it out and part of it snapped off (DOH!)

The sight should tap out the side using a brass punch and small ball-peen hammer. You can also use a wood block in place of the brass punch. Its best to have the barrelled action in a padded vise so that all the energy is transfered to the sight, and not the entire action.

This is going to sound harsh, but will be helpful. You can decide if you want to take my advice.

Its hard to see your polish from the pics, but it looks very inconsistant and polished the wrong way. First, if you want top quality end results it needs to be polished in line with the bore, ALL polishing. A lot of people have the tendancy to want to "shoe shine". This can be a decent method for the rougher grits or to get out problem areas, but the last finer grits should be polished in-line with the bore. Polish with diliberate/consistant movements. attempt to make the polish marks starigth down the entire length of the barrel. Also beware not to round off edges that dont need rounded off. Do not go to the next grit paper until the polishing marks from the previous grit have been removed.

To blend the polish marks together, try rubbing it with a gray scotch-brite pad, with the bore. With the scotch pads you do not need a backing as they are not aggressive enough to remove/drastically alter the edges, surfaces, etc...This will also give the metal a soft, satin look.

You also need to make sure you always have a backing to your abrasive paper. On flat surfaces use a flat backing(wood blocks), and on round surfaces you can use plastic tubing cut in half, pink erasers, wooden dowels of different diameters, etc..

Here is a picture of some metal polished to 320grit, and blended with scotch-brite.



Here is a picture of the receiver in the beginning stages, please know the top of the receiver is stippled and not polished. Notice how the old blueing is spotty. This is usually caused by an incompetant person using a polishing wheel from the factory. This is one reason I hate machine polishing, and love hand polishing. Also notice the paper backings(tubing, eraser) and polishing stones in the background, and the red trans fluid. When polishing it is best to use some kind of lubricant. Trans fluid is great.


Here is a Rem 1100 polished to 400grit and blended, with the "rounds" beadblasted:

hey thats awesome thanks for the advice, I was actually told the right way to do it after I had started lol, I think I am going to go back over it again. I really appreciate the help, I'll take all I can get!

oh and by the way, beautiful polish work there!

Marlin Glenfield was my first rifle as well. It holds a speclial place in my heart. Keep up the good work.

hey thanks, I can't wait. I have almost all the parts, just need paint and I need a trigger guard, the synthetic stock I ordered takes the new style trigger guard and I have the old style.. I COULD make it work, but it would look sloppy. so if anyone has a new style they wanna sell let me know! marlin said they cant get one sent to me for 60 days

Nice project , For the trigger guard call LEES GUN PARTS in Irving he has tons of parts and is cheap 972 790 0773 He is only open on Tues , Wed ,THUR good luck .

okay I decided to go a different route. I found my old stock with the squirrel on it, so I decided to just make it original. I already reblued it and painted the receiver, just cleaning up all the moving parts and stuff, should have it finished by later tonight. gonna probably go shoot it tomorrow

my first time blueing a rifle, so give me a break! looks okay for a cheap rifle though lol

Mine has the same stock. I sanded mine down and it had some nice looking wood.

I wanna refinish it at some point, I just wanted to clean it up and get it in shooting order, hopefully when my kids get a little older this is what they will learn on