I have a Remington M700 VLS in .223. I've been pretty impressed with how it performs so far. My only complaint is that the dollar bill free float test failed from the get go and I've never taken the time to rectify this. I figure by taking a little materail out of the barrel channel and thus free floating the barrel can only help.
How would you recommend accomplishing this?

Thanks

id like to know as well

I looked on Midway and they have some nice tools to accomplish this but I'm wondering if there is a cheaper efficient way to get this done with some tools I may already have.

Lots of folks use a deep socket or other round object of the proper size for your barrel channel wrapped with sandpaper. That's a slow but sure way to not muck it up. I've seen some Dremel jobs & they are ugly, at best, usually.

It would be a good idea to bed the action, too. Combine that with a free floated barrel & you should see better accuracy and consistant point of impact, as well.

Thanks for the tip oulufinn I'll give that a try! How hard is it to bed an action? Should this be done by a smith or can someone with average DIY smithing ability give it a go?

I really think it is doable with a fair amount of common sense and care, though I rely on a really good pard who is very good at it. I'd give it a whirl if I had to, but haven't had to & someone who has been through the learning curve can save "Oops" moments!

Start with the freefloating & go from there.

Just finished the free floating with the sandpaper and a socket of appropriate size, after a few test fits it passes the dollar bill test with flying colors now! I think I'll take your advice and see how it shoots now before I change anything else.

I would give it a try before bedding, although a good bedding job has never hurt accuracy on any rifles I have done. I did have one light weight barrel that wanted forend tip pressure and after free floating and glass bedding added forend pressure back in.

Cool. Hope it shoots well for you. Please post an after action report when you get a chance to shoot it some.

The VTR barrel has protrusions to ensure barrel contact. It is "pressure bedded." You may find it likes that. Or not. Let the groups tell you if you need to do anything.

I might get out tomorrow to do some shooting we'll see!

Well I got out to shoot yesterday, and after about 50 rounds I've decided it's no more accurate than befor the free floating. The good news is it was pretty darn good to begin with.

yep, sometimes the heavier barrels will not be affected from the small twin pressure pads.

I've been pleased with the accuracy and overall fit and feel of this rifle. My only complaint is that it is on the heavy side. Since I do carry the rifle a bit what are your thoughts on accuracy of this rifle vs. something with a smaller barrel profile and lighter stock in the same caliber?

Something else that is easy to do that may help some is to "seat" your bolt. You can check it by removing the bolt from the gun and looking at the two backside of the two ears that lock the bolt into place. If the grooves on the backside of these ears are not even, then the bolt is not seating properly.

You can remedy this by using some "grinding compound" that is available at any auto parts store. It is the same compound they use to grind valves in a car engine. It is kinda of a gritty grease. Just put a small dab of the grease on the back of the ears and work the bolt in and out of its locks. Once the two groove marks are even, you know that the bolt is seated properly. It may take some time depending on how far off they are to start. Once you have finished, be sure to remove all of the grinding compound and re-oil everything. It did tighten up my groups some.

Interesting thanks for the tip I'll check my bolt