I am in the process of re finishing my husbands 22. Want to suprise him when he gets in from offshore. I just about got it sanded down, just wondering what time of stain is best and any suggestions would be great! Thanks

Personally, I like the hand rubbed tru oil type finishes. Really easy to do and looks nice. If he likes a high gloss finish, see if a cabinet shop could put a good lacquer finish on it.

Ok... so I can find what you are talking about at home depot? or where.. and what exactly would it be called?
Thanks for the info!

I used Tru Oil from Walmart and then used a spray laquer to seal it from water. You can use linseed oil, but it could get messy/ sticky.

The more you use the Tru Oil the darker it will get- FYI.

Birchwood Casey's Tru Oil. Find it in gun shops. Not trying to stir anything up but I sure hope I never come home and find my wife sanding on one of my guns.(shudder)

Hopefully, you have disassembled the gun down to just the stock. Complete the sanding process using fine steel wool. This will ensure a smooth surface. Inspect the stock under various light sources to look for blemishes. When satisfied, apply mineral spirits to completely clean the stock. Next, apply tungsten oil. Tungsten oil can be purchased at most hardware stores. Using a clean cloth, apply one coat, let it dry, repeat. Apply several coats, rubbing the oil completely into the wood. I use mineral spirits between each coat of oil. You'll like the results. Very easy process. I think an oil rubbed stock, without lacquers, provides the most attractive finish.

I know mine won't touch any of mine. She has her own!

I was a fine furniture maker and musical instrument repairman for many years, and developed a process that would replicate the fine finish of a French Polish (shellac) typically used on musical instruments, yet was incredibly durable and weather-resistant. I'd published the process here before, but here it is:

After final sanding, I recommend wiping the stock with rubbing alcohol, then carefully scraping the little "hairs" that rise after the alcohol has dried. This also serves to remove sawdust left from sanding. Wipe down with a tack rag afterwards.

On the initial coat, liberally apply pure Danish Oil, wet sand, then wipe the stock dry. Allow to dry for a full 24 hours.

After 24 hours, very lightly dry sand (600 grit) or use fine scotchbrite. All you want to do is remove little imperfections and dull the finish a bit to improve adhesion of the next coat.

On the next coat, apply a mixture of 1 part Minwax Helmsman Spar Urethane to 2 parts Danish oil (both available at Home Depot), applied very thin, using the fingertips to smooth it out. You're not looking for a gloss finish here, so don't apply too much. Allow to dry for 24 hours, then lightly sand with 600 wetordry or fine scotchbrite..

For subsequent coat(s), apply a very thin coat of pure Urethane, using the fingertips to smooth and blend. Allow to dry for 24 hours between coats, then lightly burnish with the wetordry or scotchbrite, just enough to remove little rough spots or dull shinier spots.

The final coat of urethane is applied as above. After it has dried for 24 hours, apply a thin coat of paste wax & buff out.

The urethane finish (especially the Helmsman, which is made to be used on boats) is much more durable than Tru-oil, especially when applied over the Danish oil. Mixing the two on the second coat allows the urentane to be absorbed somewhat, rather than merely being a layer of plastic lying on top of the wood.

As to stain vs natural, it depends. If it's a walnut stock, I will use the stain, simply because the walnut tends to bleach out over time without it. On a stock made of highly configured wood, such as zebrawood or cocobolo, I would not use any stain.

If you want a satin finish, you should still use a gloss urethane, but buff it out with either fine scotchbrite or 000 steel wool after the final coat has cured for at least 48 hours. The satin finish urethane (and varnish & lacquer, for that matter) have an additive that softens the finish significantly, making it much easier to scratch or otherwise damage.

A less-durable but much simpler way of getting a satin finish is to apply only the danish oil (2 coats), then finish with the paste wax. You'll end up needing to re-wax it a couple of times a year, but it will be beautiful.

Have fun & good luck!

To answer the original question...

I prefer to use a penetrating oil stain applied with a clean cloth.

Wow, thanks for the all the suggestions!! And as for my husbands gun. He suggested me doing it awhile back just never got around to it. I have refinished furniture, and do alot or painting etc.. so it's not something I've never done, just never done a gun lol..

You're welcome. Good luck, and post pics when you've finished it so we can give you a collective pat on the back, OK?

Glad you added that comment. Refinishing a gun reduces its collector value. However, I have an old .22 that belonged to my grandfather that I had completely restored to like-new condition because I hope it never leaves the family.

very funny!!
Most would approach the "back off" term about refinishing! Others could care less!
It's good you and your Hubby have good communication going on!!

Agreed.

Still, many gun owners want their firearms to appreciate in value as they get handed down through generations. After all, there aren't too many things that get more valuable even though they show decades, or even a century of normal wear and tear. I was just thinking that I hope her husband wasn't one of them.

As you said, it's just a matter of preference.

OH... and I do have my own guns!

Is it a good idea to put varnish over the oil? I wouldn't think that would be good.
I Think which one you use would determine what type of finish you would want. Like, high gloss, satin, old flat, or antuiqe oil finish. You would use something different for each.
I'm sure you get my drift.

Again, no harm intended with my post. Just wanted to make a "shout out" to those who might not otherwise check with a gun owner before making modifications that could likely impact its value.

A 100-year-old gun with just 10% of the original blue still left, can easliy be worth twice or three times more than one that has been re-blued.

The reality of it is the older more aged the more valuable.
I mean who would expect to find an old M12 in brand new looking shape unless it was stored in the box in someones attic or shop.
There was a guy on THF last year that was selling a M12 he said it had never been reblued. I was going to buy it until I saw it.
It was made in 1929 and the wood showed it but the metal was super dark blue with a purple glow to it. needless to say the wood did not match the metal as far as age condition. Don't get me wrong it was a nice looking gun but looked funny with the missmatched furniture to metal. I didn't buy it because of that.
But he swore it had never been reblued even though I had to dissagree. He just wanted to much in my opinion.

Please post a pic when you finish.
Hopefully you will have a before and after!!

This gun isn't a real old one. It was actually our son's and he just left it for his dad when he went in the army. It's been knocked around a bit so just gonna get it looking good again..

I did that same thing with another old .22 that I picked up at a gun show. I wanted something that I could carry through the brush and briars when I used to run coonhounds. I refinished the stock just to make it more durable to all the abuse.

I'm sure he'll be impressed with the outcome of your efforts.

I would recommend a conversion varnish or polyurethane finish. Lacquer finishes can turn yellowish when they are exposed to sunlight.

I am saving this post to my favorites. I can't wait to see the good work you are doing!!

I think he'll be happy with.. Thanks for the suggestions Dan..

I will post a pic as soon as I'm done with... thanks for everything!