Is the truck a 2500 or 2500HD?

Neither. Its called a 1500HD. I did research and asked on here about what that was. Long story, but everyone in the know said its almost exactly the same as a 2500. 8 lugs and appears to be same suspension, trans and engine. I read that naming it different had something to do with marketing and the fact those few years were the first to have the crew cab.

Never look back and...get to work!

Yep, onward & ever forward.

What Im hearing is some are tired of my thread and my suspension indecision... Understandable.
Im definitely not looking back and I must go forward because Im in way too deep.
Im down to two choices to wrap up this project.
1. Leave it like it is and just hope the suspension handles the overload. If something wears out or breaks just fix it at that time.
2. Take preventative measures to help out the suspension to handle the overload.

Unless some of yall chime in then Im about done researching options to help with the overload. Ive narrowed down my choices to the following.
a. Replace springs with heavy duty springs for about 1200.
b. Add "Super Springs" to existing for about 1200.
c. Replace shocks with heavy duty shocks for about 500.
The suspension specialty shops and mechanics all told me none of those options will actually help much to keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner. They will only help with things like leveling it out, stabilizing the load and smoothing out the ride.
Break downs are my only concern, so I may just take it out there and see what happens.
For now, its back at the fabricator getting some more tweaking done....

"They will only help with things like leveling it out, stabilizing the load and smoothing out the ride." - all of these benefits will help to "keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner."

It would be interesting to know what the axle weights are.

From online looking, the rear GAWR is 6000 and front 4400, I think you will be fine.

Hold my beer and watch this

Hud, this is why I pay all yall consultants the big bucks. I was told that it will help a little but not much.


Red, I never heard of GAWR but I never heard of GVWR till recent either. Im not sure what the 6000/4400 means to my decision but sounds good that you think its a hedge in my favor.

For what its worth, I weighed my old truck after I stripped it down and did some reverse math to figure out it used to be over the max rating for it as well. It survived 7 years of use/abuse, as Im anticipating with this new one(likely rougher) and I never had any suspension issues.

I took it back to fab guy for what may be the final tweaking so maybe final pics.

I realized it’s really hard to get to anything over the tool boxes and in the bed itself. So he added a step rail all along the side of truck. It can be easily taken off if I need to get to tire. Both sides match.



Considering the bed is completely full at all times I needed extra room for occasional lumber and such so I’m putting up on top of the upper rack. To keep them from falling off I raised the lip of rack up at front and put rail in very front. I’ll have strap across.


May be hard to believe but bed is so full there’s not even room for my big heavy tpost driver. He penned it to headache rack and it lays out of way along underside of rack.


He welded two female pipes in the front bumper compartments which will receive a male pipe inside. A few reasons. A seat on a pipe will fit inside so someone could sit up there. Can also just grab the pipe to hold on while riding up front a short distance. Also, without room in bed for even my bucket feeder, I can strap it to the pipe. One of these remote control mobile bucket feeders goes everywhere with me so I need easy access.






Put a receiver hitch on either bumper for a vice. Also one to keep it out of way when not in use. Upon further review, I’m likely gonna move both those a little.




Minor thing but a removable rod that holds rolls of mule tape, tie wire and my favorite item is a roll of electric type wire we use constantly like tie wire but with rubber(handy as duct tape.)

Outa room on other post so finishing here.
I’ve had this raisin pole or a version for a few generations now. This latest tweak just makes it easier to raise when old and solo. I used to have to walk the pole up the cat walk which worked fine till I got older. It’s still easy to walk it up with a second guy or a stronger guy. With this tweak one older guy can easily use the winch to raise entire apparatus into position, then use winch as normal to raise stands etc.

Air tank in back bumper? Small grill that slides in reciever hitch for when you get hungry out in field.

GAWR - gross axle weight rating, max weight the axle can hold, which probably has a safety margin in there. 6000 lb rear 4400 front.

Cos, I’ve already got an air compressor in the big tool box that’s wired to the battery. It’s got a long hose but can be taken out as needed. If I’m hungry in the field, I’ve already got a sandwich. I hate to cook.

Thanks, Red, but I figured out what it stood for and "kinda" what that means. I just dont know how to apply that info to my situation. How do I compare those apples to my apples? I know what the truck weighs(9300) but I dont know how much of that weight is on the back axle and how much on front axle. My guess would be about 6000 on rear. Once again, Im close to, or over, the rating. It comes down to how much cushion in the ratings.
For what its worth, the suspension specialty place told me my factory springs(combined) are rated to 4050#. He said to replace with heavy duty would get me to 6600. I didnt know what those numbers meant to my situation and he didnt act like he knew either.

Whats really frustrating me is I keep getting different opinions from everyone I ask. Besides yall, Ive asked several trusted mechanics and suspension specialists and no one agrees on a solution. I normally make quick decisions but that has cost me in the past on these trucks so Im really trying to put in my due diligence, but to no avail.
Enough people have told me to just leave it like it is that my gut says just do that. To confirm that, I keep asking what could go wrong if I do nothing? Im used to hunting trucks having front end parts break, so, is that the potential problem? Or would the rear springs break or the rear axle, or what? The experts have all told me that no beefing up of the suspension will keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner(or very little help). If thats the case, then why beef it up?

A lot of truck scales will be able to tell you the weight per axle.

I’m firmly in the roll with it camp.

agree on both points

You’re going to find the weak points being overloaded but I’d suggest keeping an eye on your axle u bolts and I’d replace the joints asap before deer season rolls around again otherwise I’d run it.

Thanks, Thump. Youre likely a good one to listen to. Im unsure of your terminology. You mention "axle u bolts" and "joints". Is that the same thing or are you talking about "u joints"? Anyone else feel free to answer that.
I had the spring shop guy tell me the "axle u bolts" may be the weak link "if" any issue at all. But my mechanic(very experienced) said he has never seen one break. I may of misunderstood him, but I think that was the part he was referring to.
edit... By the way, Im about a week or so away from taking it to the lease and Im leaning towards leaving it like it is. Unless, yall change my mind.

The u bolts are what hold the axle to the leaf springs, like the name suggests they’re big U Bolts and can/will stretch and break. For the little expense they cost of roughly $100 for all 4 of them you might look into swapping them out now verses in a pasture. They can be swapped out in less than an hour in a shop. The U Joints are on the driveshaft and can be replaced for about $100 as well plus whatever labor he charges for it. These are the two things I’d personally be replacing before taking it to the woods, otherwise I think you’re pretty well set.

If your worried about the sag and the added weight you could add a helper spring to the rear spring pack if you replace the U Bolts at the same time and it would literally only take an extra 15 minutes per side to do and give you a little more help on the rear end.
If your mechanics never seen a bolt break I’d question his knowledge a little bit or maybe he simply hasn’t worked on many ranch trucks because I can’t recall how many I’ve personally broke over the years and they weren’t loaded down like yours is. I’d say those bolts take more abuse than just about anything on a truck that spends its life off the road. The more weight on the truck the more stress they take,