FETCH_UP
Tracker
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 616
Loc: Angleton, TX
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Didnt mention that, we always do so i dont think bout it! We try to lay off the collar while the dog is on "the line" as much as possible. Good pt. and tip there dfw
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HRCH ACE MH
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rockman6
Outdoorsman
Reged: 10/29/07
Posts: 68
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No I do not, where can I get a crop or healing stick?
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rockman6
Outdoorsman
Reged: 10/29/07
Posts: 68
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Fetch_Up tried what you said to do today and she does the same thing she is gone as soon as I shoot. I geuss I am going to have to get someone to shoot why I work her unless you have any advice as to how I can shoot and keep her from taking of at the same time?
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duckhunterdfw
Pro Tracker
Reged: 06/19/07
Posts: 1089
Loc: North Texas
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stake her out close to you.shoot then go to her and inclip her and release her by her name. Try tractor supply and tell them you need a crop or you might have to try gundog supply.com
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rockman6
Outdoorsman
Reged: 10/29/07
Posts: 68
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thanks for all the help I will let yall no what happens. This forum is great!!!!!
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rofd1374
Light Foot
Reged: 08/26/08
Posts: 42
Loc: texas
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hi i live in fort worth / azle area and have a 1 year old choclate lab. my question is does anyone have any ideas where i can take her to be trained well as bird dog. i have been working with her since she was a pup she fetches great the dove decoys with scent but in the field i have only taken her once and she didnt do as liked .
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jgiles
Veteran Tracker
Reged: 04/19/07
Posts: 2300
Loc: Grapevine
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My dog use to go the same thing, its a bad habit that I was responseable for. He wasn't missing any marks, heck it was like he was trying to get them before they hit the ground. I had to just put my gun gone for a while and let someone else shoot, while I watched him. Once I stated paying more attention to him, and really holding the line, problem was fixed. I found a 6 foot check cord to me more effective then a burn.
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Danno
Light Foot
Reged: 09/24/07
Posts: 37
Loc: Colleyville TX
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JMHO
Sit / stick* / sit.
*Healing stick into chest NOT rump. Rump shot will cause dog to move fwd. Chest contact holds em back. (Be careful not to hit shoulders or legs.)
Also, don't lightly tap but make it a meaningful stick. Get the dogs attention and make sure there is no mistake that he is being corrected for a sit command infraction. Begging with Sit, sit, sit, sit and lightly tapping with the stick is like nagging and will likely be ignored. (Besides being annoying to those around you.) Make your point once and future corrections will be productive and less frequent.
After a few sequences with correction, just holding the stick near chest or barely touching should be enough deterrent.
-------------------- “…He leads me beside the still waters.” Psalm 23:2
And when HE does, make sure you are carrying a jerk string...
Danno
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Willie B
Green Horn
Reged: 09/28/06
Posts: 8
Loc: Van Alstyne, TX
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My female would break bad at first also, especially with a gun shot,she would get fired up. To stop her, I would take the dummy launcher, and only shoot the "dummy" 1 out of about every 4 shots. The other 3 I would just fire a blank. Because I don't know about ya'll but, I don't down a bird every time I shoot at them. Them you have a dog out there looking for nothing. This conditioned her to realize that there isn't something to go get every single time she hears a shot. Also I used a check cord in the beginning, after a few good yanks when she bolted, she learned real fast to wait until she was told to go. The hard part is getting them to hold when you are not near them. Sometimes duck hunting, she will be a good 10 or more feet away for her to be in a good spot to sit. This is where them holding really is important. You can do this gradually by working distance between you and your dog slowly in training. Hope that helps some!
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FETCH_UP
Tracker
Reged: 09/12/07
Posts: 616
Loc: Angleton, TX
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Quote:
Fetch_Up tried what you said to do today and she does the same thing she is gone as soon as I shoot. I geuss I am going to have to get someone to shoot why I work her unless you have any advice as to how I can shoot and keep her from taking of at the same time?
Pm returned
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HRCH ACE MH
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Zack
Tracker
Reged: 11/03/04
Posts: 587
Loc: Troy, Texas
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Disclaimer: I didn't read the entire thread. If this was covered, my apologies.
Steadiness Drill
Items needed: Bird Boy, Starter pistol or blank gun, several bumpers, 30 yards in a short grass field, tab leash w/ pinch collar, e-collar if your dog is conditioned, heeling stick.
Procedure:
1. Bird boy is in field at about 30 yards w/ a bucket of bumpers and blank gun.
Handler and dog are at line. Dog has on both e-collar and pinch with tab leash.
2. Command the dog to sit and mark. While holding the tab leash lightly, signal bird boy to throw bumper with no shot and no voice.
If the dog is steady, send the dog. If the dog attempts to break, correct the dog with both the pinch/tab leash and the heeling stick.
If the dog has to be corrected, start procedure over. The dog is only sent to retrieve the object if they are steady. Otherwise they are denied the retrieve.
3. Rinse and repeat. Escalate the stimulation/excitement level by having the bird boy give a "hey up" before the throw and then a shot as well.
Now that you are steady during training, its time to take it to the field. Use the exact same procedure, only your bird boy is now the gunner shooting birds while you work your dog. LEAVE YOUR GUN AT HOME Start a reasonable distance from the gunner and move closer until the dog is steady with the gunner just at your right side.
I can not stress enough that by allowing your dog to retrieve an object or bird that they have broken for only serves to reinforce this bad behavior.
Once your dog is 100 percent steady with a gunner shooting for you its time to move to an actual hunt. You get to bring your gun this time. Replace the tab leash with a 6 ft leather lead that you will stand on. Its the exact same procedure as above. The dog only gets the retrieve when they are steady. Otherwise, back tie em to a fence post or tree and walk out and get your own bird or have a hunting partner retrieve the bird for you.
The e-collar is not used for anything during the drill but we continue to use it for consistency and to avoid a "collar wise" dog.
After your dog is 100 percent steady with you gunning, you can remove the 6 ft lead. If a dog breaks in this situation, the e-collar is then employed with the "here" command. Use whatever force necessary to prevent the dog from retrieving a bird on a break.
This procedure is guaranteed to work provided you are extremely consistent with the dog and that the dog has at least a moderate desire to retrieve. Dogs with low desire are not punished by the "negative punishment" of taking away the retrieve.
Good luck!
-------------------- Zack Potter
HIGH PERFORMANCE RETRIEVERS
www.hpretrievers.com
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