Welded wire feed pens

Gents, the time has come on my Coke county ranch to build feed pens to keep the hogs at bay. The 16 foot hog panels ate hard to move without a trailer so I was considering the 300 foot rolls of welded wire fencing. Is that stout enough to jeep them out? Something like this. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...TeHtwXC8MFeMhRzF6CybMv1W1JRoCBBsQAvD_BwE

I haven't used that before, but we have used the sheep and goat for feed pens and to built traps, works good. And we fenced the pigs off of 500 acres with it.
The roll stuff is a bit of a pain though. It takes more post and you have to keep it tight.
The hog panel is a lot easier, they stand up and tie fast. Maybe cut the panels into 8ft sections to get them in a truck. You will probably have a post every 8 ft anyway.

TSC keeps rental trailers for folks like you. Cheap as heck.

TSC sells precut 16' hog panels into 8' sections down in South Texas. If they do not have them they can order them for you.

Any fencing material that comes in a roll has to stretched & tensioned properly to work.
This means metal or wood posts set into the ground deep & sturdy enough to pull and hold tension. T posts will not work for tension posts.
Building a round feed pen with welded wire / field fencing is difficult, square is no problem as each corner post can be set & braced so it can be used as a tension post.

You may get away with just slapping it up short term but it won't last long then you'll have a bigger mess on your hands and wasted effort.

IMO, borrowing or renting a trailer to haul hog panels & t post is a much better idea than using welded wire / field fencing.

No, the fence panels are the best. Too much trouble with wire.

I found you don't need a high fence to keep out hogs. I cut my hog panels in half so about 2 foot high and the hogs never get to my feeders. A 2 foot fence won't keep a hog in, but for some reason they won't jump into it.

I have used welded wire on three leases that have a lot of hogs on them with no problems. I used a t-post every 8 feet and stretched the wire by hand. Running a string of barbwire along the top keeps the cattle from leaning over and pushing it down. While I never had a hog dig under the fence, if they started that running a striing of barbwire along the bottom should keep them out. I am not saying it is better than hog panels but is much easier to transport and handle.

The 16 foot hog panels are easy to move once on property. I just tie a rope to them and pull behind the truck. Easy. The more the better.

Here is a old pic of my feeder pin, you can see the hog panel is only a half panel. Never had a pic of a hog inside of it.

Here are some pics of my old pen that was built out of 50" tall cattle panels cut in half. With the larger squares I had the smaller pigs inside this pen then the larger hogs got in it. They tore down some of the panels right after this trying to get out. I changed it out to a 34" tall hog panel right after this and have had no problems since.

I've used an F-150 to move the 16 ft hog panels. You can fold them in "U" and fit up to 4 inside the bed of a truck. Just be careful when taking them out and putting them in - they tend the scratch the bed.

My buddy came along one weekend and we used his truck. I went to relieve myself after arriving back onto the ranch. He tried to take them out himself - the panels shot upwards and over the side of his truck. Scratched it pretty bad. You need two people to unload as they are like a spring when unfolding.

I would ask someone to borrow a 16-foot trailer.

That said wire will work. Our neighboring landowner fenced his row crop with some kind of heavy duty horse net wire. The stuff is nearly a rolled panel, it is heavy duty. He fenced a section with it and has had great luck keeping hogs out. I think it would make a good feed pen, but probably wouldn't be as easy as panels etc, but would surely work.

In the hill country we used sheep and goat netting to make feed pens to keep sheep/goats/cows/ and hogs off feeders and it worked well for years. yes occasionally you would have to patch a hole hogs made but it worked well for many years.

The first pen I did was with a roll of the woven wire fence. It was round and originally I put t posts every 8’ish. The hogs were squeezing under the bottom between the t posts because it flexed too much. I had to go back and add t posts so now they’re at about every 4’. Works good now. The next pen I built I used hog panel and it turned out much better. I put t posts every 8’ on it and it’s solid. I think I could have gotten away with a post every 16’. By the time you add all the extra t posts using the rolled fencing any $ savings over the hog panel is gone. If you do go the rolled route I’d get the woven stuff and not the welded. With the welded stuff the welds break and when it gets bent it seems to hold it’s bent shape. The woven stuff kinda springs back in to shape when say a hog tries to squeeze under or jump over it.

V-mesh bull wire will keep them out, if it will turn a 700 bull, it will turn them away too

I used TSC welded wire....works best due to rigid fencing could kill deer when they get their back legs entangled in the top of hog or cattle panels or rigid top of welded wire. I use breakaway wire thin wire for the top(tie wire).. allows deer to work the wire free and able to escape. some use small square hardware cloth on the top. However, cattle panels will work as I also have a pen made of that. Deer have got tangled up but broke loose(used tie wire). I believe a loose looking pen wire is safest...does not look professional but still better than rigid looking fence. I have young month old fawns jumping inside with no problems. I think I used 40 inch wire X 350 ft long. I set t post at 15 ft. apart but had to go back with 8 ft apart. I also used 2x4 treated lumber at the bottom. NO Hogs can get in...except very small baby pigs. I built the pen 200 ft. long and 90 ft wide with three feeders inside. Works very good as I have as many as 20 bucks inside. You will like it . I also used this for 7 years around brahmer (sp) cattle but the rancher changed over to black angus ...they were very aggressive so I had to add a strand of bob wire 6 inches above the welded wire....also using breakaway tie wire.
Not sure you can make heads or tails what I tried say but here it is.
No cattle and No hogs.

Go to www.okbrandwire.com and see if you see anything there that will work. We manufacture this in madill Oklahoma and it’s made and melted in Oklahoma. Most TSC stores keep a lot of our sizes in stock. If you use rolls you will likely have to stake the bottom down.

I use cattle panels cut to 36" and welded into interlocking frames that will not need Tposts to stand up. Easy to assemble, easy to disassemble, transport and store.

TSC in Graham has hog panel for $23.99 each. Anyone selling it cheaper than this. I’m going to need about 40 panels.

Hog panel question - do you guys just wire the ends of each panel to the t-post OR do you do overlap the panels and wire them together - then wire to t-post. Just looking for advice.

Overlap a little and wire together with bailing wire and also attach to tpost that is every 8 feet. Use the tpost clips. The ez tool and clips are nice and easy. Ours are very solid. Only one panel can be attached with clips to the tpost so the overlapping one is just wired to the panel.

Thiat is how to do it so that it works.

I just built a 32' diameter circle pen this weekend. We overlapped them and used rebar ties.

Galvanized electric fence wire will last as long as the panels will. I flip the inside panels to put the small squares on top, with the outside being on the bottom, makes it hard for a pig to climb in or out and if you want to turn it into a trap, simply pull one inside panel inwards and set it up with a trip wire, viola, hog trap that is round with no corners