Gary,
Window units will work fine if modified to keep the evaporator coil from freezing up by assuring that compressor cycle off before evaporator iceing occurs. I would go with a little larger unit (maybe 8-10,000 btu ) for safety to allow more compressor cutout time to defrost. I would also put the window unit on end of box, up high, for better distributions of cooling and airflow. Make sure you have slight tilt so condensate can drain outside.
You will need a accurate low temp digital thermostat with adjustable cutin, cutout, and differential setting. Below is one of the top line thermostats that also has some added features. There are other thermostats out there and it is a simple job to wire in to window unit. Shown below. You simply spice into the compressor power circuit and allow the thermostat to cycle compressor in and out. This Keeps the common evap/condenser fan motor running all the time, allowing evap to defrost when compressor is cut out. Also keep air cold air distrubuted in box.
You might also check some of the window unit marketed today for cheese and microbrewers boxes.
They are using digital low range thermostats and chill down to mid 30s
Good luck. Keep us posted.
.
Read the below to wire in.
snip
The graph below shows how an operating control cycles. The control is set to start refrigeration if the box warms up to 40 ºF That's called the Cut In point. The system keeps running until it reaches the Cut Out point which is 37 ºF where it shuts off and awaits the next call for cooling. In this example there is a 3 ºF differential between the cut in and cut out points. The differential must be wide enough that the equipment does not short cycle. Short cycling means to turn on and off too rapidly. Starting is hard on the equipment, so you want to keep the number of starts per hour to a reasonable amount, not an excessive amount. The 40 ºF point is a very special temperature. It is the standard cut in point for most refrigeration systems. Above 40 ºF bacterial growth rates in stored food increase dramatically. Below 40 ºF bacteria growth rate is subdued.
The cut out point is more of a compromise than anything else. Some products may store better at colder temperatures but colder temperatures might adversely affect other products in the same box. There is also a concern about keeping the evaporator from icing up. There is no active defrost system in a standard refrigeration system. (defrost systems are only a standard item with freezers) If a refrigeration system was set to cut in at 36 ºF and cut out at 33 ºF and the evaporator was operating with a 7 ºF TD to the box air, the temperature of the evaporator fins would be 29 ºF to 26 ºF during the run cycle. Since the freezing point of water is 32 ºF, you can see that moisture in the air would sublimate onto the evaporator surface and grow into thicker and thicker layers of ice. Not only does ice act like an insulator and reduce thermal transfer, it can totally block airflow through the evaporator fins and virtually stop thermal transfer. Some people try to push this wall a little and it is possible to squeak out a degree or 2 colder than a 40 ºF cut in point. However, anything more than a couple of degrees will risk icing the evaporator.
A countering force is the "off cycle defrost" effect. Since a typical refrigerator is designed to maintain 40 ºF, the recirculating air will tend to melt ice build up on the evaporator during the times it has it has cycled off. There are of course refrigeration systems that are designed to operate in the 35 ºF (and colder) range. However these typically have some form of defrost system. Systems that are designed to operate below 32 ºF are freezers with defrost systems and they typically operate in temperature ranges like: 0 ºF, -10 ºF, -15 ºF as well as much colder.
http://www.refrigerationbasics.com/1024x768/controls1.htm A Johnson Digital
The A419 series controls are single-stage, electronic temperature controls with a Single-Pole, Double-Throw (SPDT) output relay. They feature a lockable front-panel touchpad for setup and adjustment, and a Liquid Crystal Display (LCD) for viewing the temperature and status of other functions. A Light-Emitting Diode (LED) indicates the controls? output relay On/Off status. The A419 controls are available in 24 VAC or 120/240 VAC powered models. The A419 controls have heating and cooling modes, adjustable setpoint and differential, an adjustable anti-short cycle delay, and a temperature offset function. The setpoint range is -30 to 212°F (-34 to 100°C). The controls feature remote sensing capability and interchangeable sensors. The A419 controls are available in either NEMA 1, high-impact plastic enclosure suitable for surface or DIN rail mounting or NEMA 4X watertight, corrosion-resistant surface-mount enclosures.
http://www.pexsupply.com/Johnson-Control...l-120-240v-SPDT There is another thermo that is a little cheaper. I will find it. GL
Not digital but would work
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WHITERODGERS-Remote-Bulb-Thermostat-2E399