Feeder Leg Supports

On several of our feeders we use cement filled tires with angle iron flanges as the base for the feeder legs. We've found that they help keep the hogs from knocking them over. But, they're not fool proof. The hogs have still been able to knock a couple of them over.

Does anyone else use anything at the base of the feeder legs to keep them from getting knocked over or sinking in the dirt? I need some good suggestions!

Say Slim you need to build braces on you legs so there is no flex in feeder, then go buy some moultrie feeder feet. If you let me drill holes in your blind next time I go out I'll fix you up... Call me and we'll get them hog proof. Awwwww S__t.

Deal, but only if you cut a hole in the floor of my stand too!!!

I have a Moultrie feeder and what i did to hog proof it this year is went down to the local steel shop and have them make me all new legs. Commercial feeders these days have really weak legs, like 14 gauge or some trash like that. I took mine to the steel shop and had them cut and bend new 10 gauge legs. It only cost 40 bucks and they are 5 times stronger. I also went to lowes and bought 3 4' rebar sticks. I staked one stick into the ground next to each leg and left 8" sticking out to fasten with bailing wire to each leg. A friend and I shook the feeder with everthing we had and it didn't move and inch!
Derek

Drive rebar into the ground at the angle of your pipe legs. Put the pipe over the rebar. They can't turn it over. Getting the right angle can take a couple of tries.

I welded the legs together on mine, (the legs came in pieces that slide into each other) this made them one piece legs. I added a piece of angle to the bottom of each leg (welded on) and drilled a 1/2 inch hole in all three. I also used the 4 foot rebar, but I welded a large washer on the end of each one to make a large stake. The legs where inserted into the feeder at the top and screwed to the feeder. I then drove the 4 foot stakes through the hole in the angle all the way into the ground.

You can also take hog wire and weld large washers in the corners, use the same stake method above. Place this on the ground first laying flat and stake it down. Then place your feeder on top of that and stake it down. I like to cover the Hog wire with dirt about 3 inches if at all possible. This way you will not end up with a giant hole from all the rooting around from the hogs. They will root around some untill they get to the wire. I just spread the dirt back out each time I fill the feeder. The deer do not seem to mind.

All we did was drill holes in the bottom of the legs, and drive 2 1/2' sections of rebar in the groung. Granted, we did this 2+ years ago when the ground held a bit more moisture... Good luck.

Good post we do the same thing and have not had one turned over yet. We put the rebar next to the legs at the same angle and drive them in. Then we just pick up the leg and set it over the rebar. I also have metal pads that I slide down over the rebar for the leg to set on. This keeps the legs from sinking. The pads are 4" square with a 1/2" hole in the center.

I should have taken either my own advice or someone elses. I put a feeder along my creek last weekend. It has already been flipped over, the barrel bent and the timer pretty well mangled.

just use some t post and wire....

Saginaw,
Did you build the metal pads or buy them?

+1 for rebar and bailing wire...

T- posts and tie wire here, no probs
Also use 2x10 boards cut at about foot long and then use 2x2's cut short to box in the feet of the legs, get the feeder set, then drive t-posts next to legs and triple wrap tie wire, bailing wire around and twist tight with pliers, cut excess.

I drive rebar into the ground along the side of the feeder leg at the same angle. Softer the soil, longer/deeper the rebar. I just use a fence post driver along side the feeder leg to drive the rebar. Leave about 3 feet above ground, then use three automotive heater hose clamps per leg to cinch it to the feeder legs. Take an 18 volt drill with appropriate socket for the hose clamp and it goes together fast and tight. Also makes it easy to take down after season. This also keeps the feeder legs from sinking into the ground. If the hogs dig a hole under the feeder after a rain, I dump bags of concrete in the hole and smooth it over with the mud. Bags of concrete are cheap, so I repeat as needed when they dig around the edges. With soft soil, I have also taken three blocks of wood with a rebar sized hole drilled in the middle to stand each feeder leg on. The rebar leg supports are driven through the holes in the blocks. The block can't be removed or pushed from under the feeder leg that way.