Beginning Reloading

This week I decided I'm going to start reloading. I'm going as cheap as possible at this time just to get into it. I bought a Lee Classic Loader for the .243, Lee Dipper Set, imr4350 powder, cci 200 primers, and .243 Sierra 100gr BTSP bullets. I got a Lyman's Reloading Manual as well.

Should I buy the deburing and case trimmer? What is deburing? Do I need to clean my cases? How can I cheaply clean them? Soap and water?

I plan to buy things in time, I just wanted to go as cheap as possible at first. I'm sure in a few years I'll have most of everything.

I was reading different Lyman Roload data manuals. One said min 36gr and max 42.3gr and an older one says min 40gr and max 44.5gr. Why is this? I planned to start at 38gr.

Case trimmer first. When you trim cases on the lathe style trimmers a bur occurs on the outside and inside of the case mouth where it was cut. The first time you trim a case you will see it. The deburring tool bevels the inside and outside of that trim cut. Add a flash hole deburring tool to the list. The flash hole is punched out at the factory and lots of inconsistent brass is left behind. Deburring the flash hole helps more consitent ignition.

Brass prep is first so get the brass prep tools.

Manuals have to be made lawyer resistent. The newer one being more conservative is not surprising.

Look at hodgdon.com/reloading for their data. They make the powder, so I care what they publish. Check as many sources as you can foe powder charge weights.

Check technical reference sticky in this section.

In the Tips and tricks one IIRC there are some cleaning tips and lots of others.

Different testing labs and equipment yield different results. Different brands and shapes of bullets in the same weight will yield a different result and so on.

As I like to say, reloading data is more than a guide and much less than a Bible.

Exactly right.

Yes, you need to trim brass for all bottleneck brass. Everytime you fire it, it will grow slightly.

If you are on a budget, buy the Lee Cutter & Rod for the .243, also buy the Lee Champer Tool. I think you can get it for under 20 dollars? (I'm not 100% on that, as I don't use that system).

As for cleaning brass, I'd recommend you buy a tumbler and use media to clean the brass. BUT use something like Flitz and cloth and polish them by hand (Don't use ammonia based polish). Eventually you will use a tumbler just like everyone else, so just go buy one.

You'll also want a digital scale to check your powder weights. Trust me on this one. You'll also need calipers so you can measure your cases and your COAL.

I'd throw in a vote for the Lee trimmer and case prep tools. I used them when I started reloading to save money, but they work just fine.

Thanks. I'll be buying the lee case trimmer and prep tools, some calipers for measuring, and a digital scale. Not at first though. I think I'm good with what I have for the first reloading at least.

For cleaning I'll be doing the vinegar, water, soap soak. Then I'll dry then in the dryer in a cloth bag. In time I'll get a case tumbler.

I'm not needing to shoot super accurately. Just good enough to shoot a deer or hog at about 200 yards max.

If you go with the Lee trim tools get the Lee stud so you can use a drill to trim, chamfer OD ID, and then polish the case with steel wool. Lee is simple and fool proof and work pretty good.
Good luck

Disclaimer: I've yet to reload a single shot yet, but in the process of teaching myself.

I unknowingly bought the Worlds Finest Trimmer from a thf member and just set it up to use it last night and it works brilliantly. I just have to figure out what to do with the flying brass shaving. Seems lien the biggest draw back to this system is that it tends to be caliber specific. But it don't bother me too much at this point. I even now own the Worlds Finest Trimmer 2 with a 223 insert. This second generation allows for more calibers.

It might be worth looking into. I really don't know since I've only trimmed about 125 cases so far. But seeing how other do it online I'm totally convinced this is at least the fastest way to trim a bunch of cases.

I reloaded 20 bullets today. Was fun! I marked the cases with a line to show they have been reloaded once and wrote my load data on the box that I put them in.

Will the sharpie line stay on the case after its fired?

Yes

You don't know it at this point, of course, but you will get so sucked into this "money saving" adventure. You'll have a Lyman on your toilet tank pretty soon. You'll bring home brass for guns you don't have. You'll scan intersections while you're waiting for the light to change for lead weights.

You aren't the first so don't feel bad.

So a dipper is all you have for now? How are you going to know if 4350 even works unless you try different weights? It may throw the bullet all over the paper with one charge or any. A scale is about $40. A trickler is about $20. Surely you can afford that.

Are you using the Lee loader that you hammer?

I started out reloading for a 30-30 with a Lee Classic Loader. You can load some decent ammo with one and is a good way to get your feet wet in reloading for not that much $ layout. The main thing with the scoops is consistency with your process, and get a powder funnel, it will make getting the powder in the case so much easier.

My reloads for the 30-30 were as accurate as Winchester factory loads and kept me reloading and shooting for as long as I had the 30-30.

One thing about the Lee Classic Loader is you are not full length sizing.

Yes im using the lee loader that i hammer.

I can afford it but wanted to start out as cheap as possible.

Once i shoot it ill know how it does.

Ill be buying a scale and trickler one day, again i just wanted to start as cheap as possible.



Im almost already sucked into it. Im planning what i will buy next. Im thinking of making a coyote round.

I shot it this morning. It shot a 2" group at 125 yards. Part of it was because I shake so I figure it was about 1.5" actually. I'll be getting a scale next week and trying again. But I'm happy with it. It was fun and is accurate enough for my hunting needs but I'd like better. I know my powder charges were off. I wasn't too careful in measuring.

Could be the type of powder. You really need at least a Lee Challenger kit. It's about $125.

Ooooooooo...it begins. Welcome to the addiction, Mathman. I can't imagine not reloading. I wonder how many years it's been since I shot a factory rifle round out of one of my rifles.

Another trick is to use colored markers on the primers. Reference your loads on the box label by primer color. The next time you reload the fired case, the primer is removed & you can start over. Simple & effective for tracking things.

FWIW...

Turns out my FIL has a balance scale. I'll test it and see if it's still good and use it next.

I don't see why it would be needed? I figure all I really need is a scale to weigh the powder charge and bullets. The Challenger would be easier, but how would it be more accurate?

You may be correct though. I just want an explanation.

Your loader does not do true full length resizing and at some point the cases will stretch enough, chambering problems will arise with the reloads from one. Or at least that is my experience but if only reloading brass a few times you can get away with one for years, I did.

The Lee loader in my experience will load serviceable ammo that is fine for hunting at the most common distances most critters are shot. A scale can sure help in getting the powder charges more consistent but with the dippers you can get pretty good being consistent with the scooping the powder helps a lot. When you get your scale you can scoop into the pan then trickle a little more powder in to get to your load (choose a scoop a little under the load you want then trickle up to your load in the scale pan). Even though I have powder tricklers now I have used a 45-70 case for a trickler long enough that I still use one sometimes to trickle in a little powder.

this....
i have other trim tools but this is how i do it . but i use eagle one wheel polish, its a can stuffed with cotton, rip a piece off and apply to spinning case then use a rag on spinning case, wha la super polished brass.

I tried his balance scale. I didn't like it. It took too long. I ended up buying a Frankford Arsenol Digital Scale.

I tried it today and love it. I tested lee dippers and they were almost right on the money to be what they said but me doing it was +- .4 grains. I got better at it while testing the weights and then I became +-.2 grains.

I weighed my bullets and they are off up to 1 grain difference. I'll be grouping them when loading them.

I'll be reloading again tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

Kmon mentioned using a 45/70 case for a trickler. Another solution is cheap salt & pepper shaker set from Dollar General or garage sale. Works better with ball or flake powder. Understand your interest in staying within your budget and reloading faster....

But cheap and faster are hard to combine in reloading. Sort of like wanting a cheap but fast high quality sports car.

Try the salt shaker, they are even designed not to tip over on your bench.

Thanks for the idea on a trickler. I found a way to make one from an old cup, some tape, and hard straw. I'll try to build it today.

I'm not needing speed though yet. I'm having fun doing it now.

This morning I grouped my bullets by weight. I found 20 that are exactly 100 grains. I loaded 42.1 grains of imr 4350 and seated them to the same depth as a factory round. I've done two so far. Taking a long time but fun. If I shoot a lot like I plan to this summer then I'll invest in a trickler. For now I'm just trickling out of a powder scoop.