best flying fixed blade

In your opinion what is the best flying fixed blade broadhead 2 3 and 4 blade?

Slick tricks fly good. How well your bow is tuned will affect fixed blades a lot more.

true. add G5 Montechs to ones that work well also

Slick Tricks

G5's

Slick tricks for me. Virtually zero difference from my field points.

Slick Trick Grizztrick 2 for me. (125 gr)

I do have some Montecs but have hunted with them yet.

I like drt dirt nap heads. And stinger buzz cuts if I'm using fixed. I usually have 3 mech heads and 3 fixed when I go out in the field. And a field point or 2 in my pocket.

Thanks for the suggestions guys keep them coming just trying to get a general idea before I make a choice

I just started shooting Ram Cats and really like them.

10 years ago when I started shooting a bow I started with a pack of Shuttle t's. Still use and like them.

I've been shooting Muzzy's for years, and they always perform. But from what I've read, Slick Tricks are supposed to be really good as well. I plan to give them a try this deer season?! In reality, if you stick with a reputable company, I think you'll be fine! just my $2cents

The best thing is to have a well tuned bow. The the rest is easy.

Amen! It is really too bad that the majority of people out there have no idea what a properly tuned bow shoots like.

Yelp, then broadhead accuracy takes on a new meaning..lol usually that means past 60 yards

Well tuned bow, then Ramcats. No worries.

Bow is freshly paper tuned and grouping awesome with field tips so not worried about the tuning

Hartcraft

Then it becomes a personal choice. The G5 is a great flying, tough as hell head. But the compactness that makes it fly well also is a small cutting diameter which sometimes affects how good of a blood trail you will get. I suggest trying more than one brand.

Well if your fixed heads don't fly to same point of impact as your field tips its probably not the heads. Broadhead or walkback tuning will likely be needed for perfect flight unless you got real lucky with the paper tune. Just letting you know so you don't scrap some perfectly good heads thinking its their fault. YouTube has some good videos that can explain the different tuning methods.

^ thanks for the info

slick trick fly great..but your bow needs to be tuned regardless of what broad head you use.

Muzzy stingers.

Anything single beveled, anything else is essentially like putting reversed fletchings on the front of your arrow...just make sure the bevel coincides with your fletchings (right or left)

With my bow freshly tuned, I shot Magnus Stingers (my personal favorite BH), slick tricks, and even Steel Force Premiums practically all to the same POI as field points. The difference between stingers and field points was undetectable out to 80 yards. Probably opening a can of worms and ranting my personal bias, but with accuracy differences being a non-issue, and yet penetration and reliability issues being present with mechanicals, I just can't see why anyone consistently favors mechanicals over fixed blades...

I agree with the rest; a well tuned bow first.
I prefer heavy, so I shoot Muzzy Phantoms 220gn in my compounds and my trad bows.

I don't know why people even bother to paper tune unless all you do is compete in 3D tournaments.

To many they will never notice the difference. To others there is a real difference. The faster the bow the more important paper tuning is IMO.

With a properly tuned bow, all broad heads will shoot good, at that point its all a matter of preference.

+1000

I agree; first and foremost if you don't paper tune your cheating yourself and the bow. if the arrow isn't flying 100% true, then your over compensating for an un-tuned bow to start with.
There are a lot of bow hunters that wouldn't know the difference between a well tuned bow or a fairly tuned bow.

Just think about it, if the arrow is flying true 100%; something is not right!
Same thing goes with tuning a trad bow, it all starts with bare shaft tuning, and that is critical.

The advent of mechanical heads has hurt the average bowhunter understanding the need to fully tune a bow. Yes they will fly to the same POI as the field point but you are losing speed, kinetic energy and penetration if your bow isn't tuned properly.

90% of flight issues are not caused by an issue with a broad head or by the broad head design.
if you read and follow this you will achieve better flight no matter what broad head you shoot.
http://soleadventure.com/2014/08/4-requirements-for-incredibly-accurate-broadhead-flight/

Great Article OUTDOORSMAN81. I want to add this too.

The Misconception of aligning blades with vanes. Every year we get a new crop of bow hunters and they are usually given advice to them by those who one time got bad advice and they keep passing it on, thinking it's right.

Aligning broad heads and fletching is a misconception; extensive research has been done; and if the bow is properly tuned and the arrows is the proper arrow aligning broad heads to the fletching is a waste of time. I will add one thing that people tend to forget is to make sure that broad head is tight use a little was on the threads, if you have an arrow spinning left it can with each shot unscrew the broad head just enough to throw if off balance if the broad head is loose. One reason I always use right off set with vanes and right wing with feathers.

When Holles Wilbur Allen got the patent for the first compound bow (Dec 1969) he joined forces with Tom Jennings and compounds changed the world, soon Bear jumped on the band wagon and started selling his White Tail hunter which I still have; it's enshrined in a shadow box, picture below. We didn’t have internet or other avenues of sharing ideas, most of it was done with archery clubs, tournaments and newsletters. We worked real hard to make sure we have our broad heads and feathers lined up. Of course a lot of us still used wooden shafts, we had to unglue and re-glue the broad heads. As time progressed and technology improved extensive study was done to see it that was necessary and time and time again it all boiled down to having a properly tuned bow and the correct arrow. I just want save someone some time in going through all that for nothing. I’m saying this from experience, I know I’ve wasted a lot of time in that area in the early days.

Here’s my first compound Bear White Tail Hunter, along with ribbons I won in competing (one is for 120 yards) back then it was all field archery. It’s not worth much today on the market but I would never sell it, it has opened to me many doors in the world of archery.

Viper tricks

Bjankowski,
You are correct. Id say in the past 15 yrs of doing this I have at least one customer a year ,who is so hung up on broad head alignment, that they want to return the cut arrows and want me to build them a new set for free.

There's always that one in the bunch; mostly because they are listening to someone that doesn't have a clue.

I am a total newb so I was really happy to see that the muzzy trocars i bought flew exactly like my field points. Made things a lot simpler.

Yep Montecs for sure are my choice

Slick Tricks

If we are going by flight only I say Montec, or buzz cut.. Haven't shot slick tricks but I bought some.. Had blood trail problems with montecs it seems.. I would have hardly any blood trail, find the animal locate the hole and it was great shot placement.. They are also falsely advertised on there cutting diameter..

I've tested Shuttle T Lock, Muzzy and G5. Of the 3 I like the G5's best. They had the best grouping and penetration over the other two. They were actually blowing through my target. Needless to say that's what I'll be hunting with next month for Elk.

how you figure, the ones I have measured have been spot on. One thing the Montecs will not open as large of entrance and exit holes as say slick tricks or some others. The skin is not stretched then cut like it is with some heads, the stretched skin will create a larger hole than heads like 2 blade broad heads or Montechs that slice through the skin without stretching it prior to cutting.

The 100 grain I had said 1 1/8" I believe, the back had a picture that said actual size, I measured from tip to tip on the pic and then measured actual and it was quite a bit smaller..