Long range and MILS

Is there an easy way to remember what each 10th of a mil is at different yardage I.E 200,300,400 etc? I've changed from MOA to mils and it is harder to remember. For those that shoot mils, did you just memorize them? I know is seems to be a stupid question, just trying to wrap my mind around it

For the long range shooters as well, what size groups are y'all happy with? I shot my creed at 500 this past week and it was shooting a 4" group. Would you be happy with that?

4 inch group at 500 is excellent. As for knowing the mils you just need to get an app, shooter is good. The mils will change depending on the weather etc.

Y

Converting tenth Mil to inches has no value. If you're getting DOPE or zeroing and if your impact ia not where you wanted it to be you see in Mils, your scope adjusts in Mils. Two tenths low? dial up two tenths. Two tenths left? dial or hold two tenths right.

But if ya jusr gotta complicate things. A mil is a yard at a thousand yads, an inch at a thousand inches, rod at a thousand rods, ect. So at a 1000 is is 1 verticle, at 500 it is .5 verticle, at 100 it is .1 verticle.

At 100 yarsds, a Mil is 3.6" (a tenth of 36). So a tenth of 3.6" is .36" If you want those values at farther distances multiply. A mil at 200 = 3.6 x 2 = 7.2". A mil at 300 = 3.6 x 3 = 10.8" carry that out as far as you like.

4" at 500 yards is very, very good. When I'm performing load development that far, I'm looking for sub 2" verticle dispertion. Am much happier with sub 1" verticle dispertion. This is on a cut rifled barrel, chambered by a picky smith, and tuning a load as perfect as I can get it.

The mathmatical size of a Mil will never change.

The number of Mils you use can change depending on environmental conditions and how far the shot is going.

X2 a mil is a mil and moa is a moa.

Depending on the look of the group I would be pretty happy.

Thanks FG, that's what I meant...

I had no doubt that's what you meant. I just wanted to help the OP understand. For some folks this seems hard, and I didn't want any added confusion.

If I am shooting longer ranges, I print out a drop chart for what I am shooting. Here lately I have been changing up bullets and loads in my 308 Win there's no way I can memorize my dope. Most shooters will tape their dope on their stock, or laminate it and put it on a lanyard on their scope. If you only have 1 rifle and one load, it shouldn't be too hard to memorize your 2, 3, 400 yard dope.

4" at 500 is sub moa. and that's not bad at all. Depending on the rifle, scope, and shooter, depends on if you can improve on it or not. I have been working on a customer's 6.5 CM rifle and he finally shot a 3.5" group at 1K with it a week ago. It's a pure custom rig with high end scope.

From memory

200 yards .4
300 1.0
400 1.8
500 2.7
600 3.7
700 4.7
800 5.8

45 seconds it took me to write it. If you shoot enough you'll get it memorized. But as Chad said thats the 6.5 Creedmoor that I shoot the most, so that's why I have it memorized. My 7 Rem Mag I would have to reference the chart.

This is what I was talking about. I understand that a Mil= 3.6" at 100. And a Mil at 1000 equals 36" etc. it seems that the 100,500 and 1000 are pretty easy. My question was for getting dopes at different yardages on paper. For example, we were shooting the CM at 500 yards and the bullet impacted the top left of the paper. We could not see the hit through the spotting scope using a shoot and see target. I could not use the reticle to measure the distance because I could not see the impact. We drove down to look at the target and the impact was 5.5" high and 5.5" left(wind at full value right to left). Here is where the thinking part came in. To get the gun zero for elevation, I had to lower the scope 5.5". I almost needed a calculator at this point. 1 Mil at 500 equals 18". A tenth then equals 1.8". I needed to correct the scope by 3 tenths +/-


What I meant to ask was, do you memorize the 10th at each distance? It seems you have to convert to inches at some point since the targets are in inches ....correct?

I had 6 guys that had never shot my gun shoot 1 round each at 500(target above) the top left corner was first shot along with 2 additional which I put a line through.(sight in) They didn't shoot half bad except 1 person must have missed the target. My rifle is a custom AR 6.5 CM with Leupold mark 6 3x18. I'm pretty happy with this build shooting 140gr amax.

Another question, how do you calculate wind drift? Do you jus hold for wind and correct with bullet splash?

If you are trying to zero it up on paper using a ruler in inches, then yes, you will need to convert it. If you were shooting steel, you could see you splashes, and measure it with the reticle in mils.

Your target is pretty busy with grids and markings making it hard to see your hits further out. A clean white paper will help see your impacts. But even at 500, it gets difficult to see.

Thanks. The ranch I was guiding on had a1000 yard range and these were the targets that were available. I will make sure to have white paper when I get dopes for all the other ranges. My 500 yard dope was 2.9 Mils.

Base your wind off 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock at 5 mph.

Your wind:

200 .1
300 .2
400 .3
500 .4
600 .5
700 .6
800 .8
900 .9
1000 1.0

Double the wind speed, double the hold.

Cut the wind angle in half cut the hold in half.

An hour ago I dialed up for my 1 MOA plate at 700 yards. I called the wind 7-8 mph @ 2 o'clock, I held .5 to the right and let er rip. I missed and saw splash .2 into the wind from my hold. Cycled, and held .3 and sent another one. Center hit, headed home.

Thanks fireman for the info. That is what I was needing. Great shooting by the way

You're welcome.

Seems like you are making this more difficult that it needs to be...do you know the muzzle velocity? Site it in at 100? And then just dial it based on a ballistic calculator...

I don't mean to be a jerk, it's just so much easier if you site it in at 100 and dial the yardages from there...

What Tye was doing was getting field DOPE. Good practice to be in the habit of. It's very good to know how to do a little math after viewing the target, and be able to make the necessary corrections prior to reshooting.

Chronographs are useful, but not to be completely relied upon. Nothing replaces shooting the load/rifle/scope at distance and see what you see.

Just because the chronograph says a certain velocity doesn't mean it is true. Checking in the field is the best way as you might have to adjust velocity or bc depending on certain factors.

That is what I did with a shooting app. The app said I needed 3.1 mils at 500. With this setting in the scope, the bullet impact was at the top left corner of target. 5.5" or .3 Mils to high. An app will get you close but won't give you exact numbers for the best accuracy.

For long range shooting, you have to record true statements for your set up, not an approximization.

hahaha....I have a hard time thinking MILS too. I will say about 30 minutes with FiremanJG helped, but I'm far from cured.