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How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. #3714106 11/01/12 07:41 PM
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The MilDot Reticle

Simply put, the Mil-Dot is a range estimating reticle that was developed for military applications. The space between the dot centers subtends one milliradian (Mil). One Mil subtends 3.6" at 100 yards, or 36" at 1,000 yards.

This reticle was developed in the late 1970s to help U.S. Marine snipers estimate distances, and is now standard for all military branches. The space between dot centers subtends one milliradian (mil) hence the name mil-dot. Contrary to popular belief it does not stand for "military dot". One mil subtends 3.6 inches at 100 yards or 36 inches at 1,000 yards. To use this system effectively you must know the size of the target. For instance most people are an average of 6 feet tall or 2 yards. The formula used for determining range to the target is (size of target x 1000 divided by number of mils the target covers).

Height of target (yards) X 1,000 = Range (yards)/
Height of target (mils)

You can do these calculations with a calculator or use a reference table like the ones listed below. But remember that your answer is only as accurate as the numbers you plug into the formula. An error of just a 1/4 mil will cause an error in target range. Also an error in estimating the size of your target will cause an error in target range.

The top line on the table represents the size of the target as measured in feet or inches. The second line represents the conversion of the foot measurements to yards. The left column shows the mil measurements to the nearest 1/2 mil. The mil scale can be split to the nearest 1/8 mil for a more accurate range measurement. To use the table follow the instructions below.
1.Estimate height of target and locate across the top.
2.Measure height of target in mils and locate down the side.
3.Move down from the top and right from the side to find the range in yards.



Range Estimating with the Mil-Dot Reticle
Dots are spaced in one mil (milliradian) increments on the crosshair. Using the mil formula, a table can be created like the ones above that is based on the size of the object being targeted. Just look through the scope, bracket the object between dots, and refer to the table for an estimated distance to target.

The radian is a unit-less measure which is equivalent in use to degrees. It tells you how far around a circle you have gone. 2 PI radians = 360 degrees. Using 3.14 as the value of PI, 6.28 radians take you all the way around a circle. Using a Cartesian coordinate system, you can use "x"- and "y"-values to define any point on the plane. Radians are used in a coordinate system called "polar coordinates." A point on the plane is defined, in the polar coordinate system, using the radian and the radius. The radian defines the amount of rotation and the radius gives the distance from the origin (in a negative or positive direction).

The radian is another measurement of rotation (the degree/minute/second-system being the first). This is the system used in the mil-dot reticle. We use the same equation that we used before, but, instead of your calculator being in "degree" mode, switch it to "radian" mode. One milliradian = 1/1000 (.001) radians. So, type .001 into your calculator and hit the "tangent" button. Then multiply this by "distance to the target." Finally, multiply this by 36 to get inches subtended at the given distance. With the calculator in "radian" mode, type:

tangent(.001)*100*36 = 3.6000012

So one milliradian is just over 3.6 inches at 100 yards. If we extrapolate, two milliradian equal about 6 feet at one-thousand yards.

The mil-dot reticle was designed around the measurement unit of the milliradian. The dots themselves were designed with this in mind and the spacing of the dots was also based upon the milliradian. This allows the shooter to calculate the distance to an object of known height or width. Height of the target in yards divided by the height of the target in milliradians multiplied by 1000 equals the distance to the target in yards. For example, take a 6-foot-tall man (2 yards). Let's say that the top of his head lines up with one dot and his feet line up four dots down. So: (2/4)*1000 = 500 yards away. This same technique can be used to estimate lead on a moving target or to compensate for deflection on a windy day.

The distance from the center of one dot to the center of the next dot is 1 milliradian. We are told (by Leupold) that the length of a dot on one of their reticles is 1/4 milliradian (Given this much information, one can determine that the distance between dots is 3/4 milliradian.).* I use the term "length" because the mil-dot is not round in all cases. It is oblong in some scopes and round in others (Tasco). The width of each dot is an arbitrary distance and is not used for any practical purpose. Like a duplex reticle, the mil-dot reticle is thicker toward the edges and uses thin lines in the middle where the dots are located and the crosshairs cross. The distance between the opposite thick portions is 10 milliradian on Leupold scopes.

*NOTE: 1/4 milliradian = .9" and 3/4 MOA = .785", so, obviously, a mil-dot cannot be both 1/4 milliradian and 3/4 MOA. The maker of the mil-dot reticles for Leupold explains: the dots on their mil-dot reticles are 1/4 mil. They are not 3/4 MOA. Apparently, Leupold just figured that more shooters understand MOA than milliradian, so they just gave a figure (in MOA) that was close, but not super precise.

To use a mil-dot reticle effectively, all one need remember is that the distance between dot centers is 36" at 1000 yards. This lets you determine the range of a target of known size. At that point, you can dial the scope in for proper elevation OR use the dots to hold over the proper amount. The dots on the horizontal crosshair can be used to lead a target (if you know the range to the target, then you'll know the distance between dots, and thus the distance to lead) or to compensate for deflection.



Minute of Angle
The term "minute-of-angle" (MOA) is used regularly by target shooters at the range, but is probably understood thoroughly by few (the same goes for mil-dots). Defined loosely, one MOA = 1" @ 100 yards; so, if you shot your rifle 5 times into a 100-yard target and every shot went into a one-inch circle you had drawn on the paper, then your rifle could be said to shoot 1 MOA. Likewise, if every shot goes into a two-inch circle at 200 yards, then you're shooting 1 MOA. A 10-inch group at 500 yards would be 2 MOA.

Now for the fun part. There are 360 degrees in a circle. Each degree can be broken down further into minutes. There are 60 minutes in a degree. Likewise, there are 60 seconds in a minute. Now, to figure out the distance subtended by 1 minute at any particular distance, we need merely to plug those two values into a simple trigonometric equation. The tangent function fits the bill nicely. Here's the equation:

tan(angle) = distance subtended/distance to the target
(units must be consistent--e.g., 1/36 of a yard [1"] divided by 100 yards)

Now, we know the angle (1 minute or 1/60 of a degree) and we know the distance to the target (100 yards), but we need to figure out the actual distance subtended at the target (i.e., is 1 MOA actually 1" @ 100 yards?). What we need to do is solve for "distance subtended." Here's our final equation:

tan(angle)*distance to the target = distance subtended

Make sure your calculator is in "degree" mode (as opposed to "radian" or "gradian") and type in 1/60 (for degrees) and hit the "tangent" button. Then multiply that by 100 yards. This should give you the distance (in yards) subtended at 100 yards. Multiply this by 36 to get inches. The answer should be:

1.047197580733"

This is just a hair over the commonly quoted "one inch." At 1000 yards, this would be almost 10 1/2 inches. Apparently, it is just a coincidence that 1 MOA happens to be REALLY close to 1" @ 100 yards. It is, however, quite convenient





What is a Mil (Mil Dot Reticle)

There seems to be quite an urban legend surrounding the "different mills". Here's a brief history on the military mil and its comparison to the milliradian. Sometime prior to WWI with the advent of precision artillery, the military decided to come up with a precision compass unit. The milliradian was in the ballpark of what they were looking for, but 6283.19 milliradians to 360 degrees would have made the math difficult. So the military shrank the milliradian by about 2%, and wound up with 6400 mills to 360 degrees. Why 6400 versus a simple rounding to 6300??? Well 6400 is easily divisible by 8, which corresponds to the primary cardinal directions (i.e. N, NE, E, SE, S, SW, W, NW) and their subdivisions. So (as far as I know), that is how the military "mil" was created. The mil dot reticles that we produce are based on the milliradian. The reason we do that, is that it fulfills the 1000 to 1 ranging ratio which the military wanted. What this means is that 1 milliradian will subtend a 1 meter target at 10 00 meters (or a 1 yard target at 1000 yards, a 1 foot target at 1000 feet.....you get the picture). The milliradian does this exactly, thus it was chosen. Now when we compare the military "compass mil" and the milliradian, they are rather close: 1.02 military mills (3.375 moa) = 1.00 milliradian (3.439 moa). As you can see the difference is miniscule.....it roughly corresponds to a 2 centimeter difference on a 1 meter target at 1000 meters, or a 2 millimeter difference on a 1 meter target at 100 meters. That's a 0.079"!!!! So even with a 1/4 moa barrel and 1/4 moa adjustments on the scope itself, it would make no difference to the shooter whether he calculates the distance using the milliradian or the mil. As far as ranging is concerned, the difference is similar: using the military mil, a 1 meter target at 1000 meters would be ranged at 980 meters. At 100 meters, the 1 meter target would be ranged at 98 meters. I seriously doubt whether anyone can actually use a mil dot reticle to that degree of accurac y anyway. In practicality, most modern military cartridges do not drop like a rock. If one is shooting out to 1000 meters, they are using a 300 WM or a 338 Lapua, which will not have a significant enough drop in the 1000 meter ballpark to reflect a 20 meter difference. So, as you can see the difference between the two is rather insignificant to all but a few world class bench rest shooters (if that).





Mil Dots as aiming points
Utilizing Mil Dots as aiming points, that is the "Dots" of the mil dot system, requires knowing which Dot to use for each 50/100 yd increment for the entire trajectory of your bullet. The Dots designated for long range will have to be the aiming point for a series of yardage increments. The amount of hold from target center will be different for each increment depending on the distance. You may have to hold the designated Dot low from target center for one 50 yd increment, then high for the next 50 yds. There is no consistent pattern to go by. Each high and low hold from target center will range anywhere from several inches to a few feet depending on the distance. For some long-range shots, you will have to place the appropriate Dot literally above or below your target for the proper bullet drop compensation. This provides no real aiming point to focus on which is a crucial factor for accurate long range shooting. The disadvantages of utilizing Mil Dots as aiming points for bullet drop compensation are a s follows: The limited number of Mil Dots having to be utilized as aiming points for so many yardage increments creates the problem of so many different holds on your target. Shooting at high altitudes or extreme temperatures requires different holds than that applied for the field conditions at your home range. The size of a Dot covers up too much of your target for a precise shot at long, as well as, medium ranges. The dot completely covers up small or partially concealed targets at medium to long-range engagement. You cannot be dialed in at an appropriate yardage setting with the Mil Dot system. The Mil Dot system should be used for what it was designed for which is range finding.


Mil Dot Reticle
The Mil. Dot reticle is available for all tactical scopes. The Mil. Dot is also available for the LPS 3.5-14x50mm Side Focus, Vari-X III 2.5-8x36mm, Vari-X III 6.5-20x50mm Adj. Obj, Vari-X III 6.5-20x50mm Long Range Target, M8-6x42mm Adj. Obj. Target, and the Vari-X II 4-12x40mm Adj. Obj. An illuminated Mil. Dot reticle is available in the following illuminated reticle scopes: Vari-X III 3.5-10x50mm Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), Vari-X III 4.5-14x50mm Adj. Obj. Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), Vari-X III 3.5-10x40mm Long Range M1 Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte), and our Vari-X III 3.5-10x40mm Long Range M3 Illuminated Reticle Scope (matte). The Mil. Dot reticle is a range finding reticle originally developed for military applications. The space between dot centers subtends one milliradian(mil). One mil. subtends 3.6 inches at 100 yards or 36 inches at 1,000 yards. To use this system effectively you must know the size of the target. Please note that your Mil. Dot reticle was calibrated to be used at one magnification. If your scope is a 3.5-10 the correct magnification is 10x. On the 4.5-14 use 14x. On the 6.5-20 use 10x, or double the distance determined on 20x. The use of any other magnification will yield inaccurate results. Height of target (yards) X 1,000/Height of target (mils) =Range (yards)

Range Estimating With The Mil. Dot Reticle
With practice, the Mil Dot system is simple to use. Dots are spaced in one mil (milliradian) increments on the crosshair. Using the mil formula, the shooter can create a table based on the known size of the object targeted. Just look through the scope, bracket the object between dots, and refer to the table for an estimated distance to the target. Leupold scopes fitted with the Mil Dot reticle include more specific instructions on its use.




Over the last couple of years the mil dot reticle has become less of an option and more the standard in tactical rifle scopes. Since its inception with the Unertl USMC sniper scope and later in various versions of the Leupold Mark IV scope, military snipers have come to know the mil dot reticle as a reliable means of determining distances to targets, establishing leads for moving targets, and for alternate aiming points for windage and elevation holds. Military snipers who are graduates of formal programs of instruction have spent numerous hours honing their ability to use the mil dot reticle and are comfortable and competent with it. Military snipers are easy to train on the mil dot reticle, as the military has been using the mil relation formula in one form or another for many years. As the WERM rule (width of correction = Range x mils observed), it has been the mainstay for determining adjustments when calling and adjusting indirect fire weapons such as mortars and artillery. On the other hand, so me Law Enforcement and civilian tactical and practical long-range precision shooters are a little hesitant sometimes of the mil dot reticle because of a lack of proper training. I hope this article will help remedy this problem.

The mil dot reticle is a post and wire reticle with 10 mils (milliradians) between opposing posts and dots spaced 1 mil apart on the wires, minus the reticle intersection so as not to obscure the aiming point. A milliradian is an angular unit of measure that just happens to equal one yard at 1000 yards and 1 meter at 1000 meters. Knowing this fact we can, through the wonders of elementary mathematics, use this little critter to determine distance to an object when the size of the object is known. The sniper simply measures his target using the dots, then works a simple formula to obtain the target's distance or the distance to an item near the target.



How the milliradian became the unit of measure of choice is fairly interesting as sniper trivia. Back when the military was determining how to graduate their artillery pieces the techno-geeks settled on the milliradian as the unit of measure for their sights. Since there were 6,283 milliradian (2 PI for all you math whizzes) in 360 degrees they rounded up to 6400. The Soviets on the other hand rounded down and ended up with 6200 mils in a circle for their artillery sights, compasses, etc.

As the Marine Corps sniper program grew and matured during the late 70's, the snipers desired more accurate range estimation abilities than what the issue 6x30 and 7x50 binoculars and the 3x9 Redfield scope were allowing. The binoculars had hatch marks that were graduated in 10 mil increments with the actual hatch mark lines being 5 mils long (Steiner M22), which were all too coarse for obtaining much precision. Add to this that the Accu-trac system in the Redfield, using an 18-inch stadia line intended for deer hunting, left much to be desired for tactical shooting. We at the Scout/Sniper Instructor School used a "barber pole" to teach students to mentally break the reticles of the binoculars into finer sub-tensions than for what the binoculars were originally designed. This barber pole had 4" bands painted on it and we set it out at 111 yards where each band equaled 1 mil. This allowed the student to see what the graphics on the reticle subtended including hatch marks, numbers etc. For example, the base of the number 2 equaled a certain fraction of a mil and the tips of the number 3 equaled another number of mils. All of this was fine and dandy but a better way was needed.



Although the mil dot system is both simple and accurate, as with anything else it does have limitations, especially if you haven't received formal training on them. The owner's manuals that usually come with the civilian scopes are very basic when they explain the use of the reticle. I've been teaching the use of the things for over 18 years and have seen most of the problems that students run into when first encountering mil dot reticles. Even high-tech devices such as laser range finders have limitations and disadvantages and low-tech mil dots are no exception. In this article I will cover some facets of mildot usage that will enhance your ability to use them.



The Mil relation formula
There are a couple of permutations of the mil relation formula floating around. At first look most of them strike fear in the hearts of most of us Neanderthal, knuckle dragger types, but they are really quite user friendly. Granted the formulas require you to use more than your fingers and toes, but we Marines can handle it! Well, here we go. The basic one is:

Height of item in yards (meters) x 1000/Mils read = Distance to item in yards (meters)

This formula is good when the sniper knows an item's size in yards. My only problem with this version is that cops often have to deal with small items such as vehicle wheels, small stickers on windows, headlights etc. This requires the officer to convert a 7" headlight into a decimal equivalent in yards before they can work the formula. And since most cops are fellow Neanderthals and are usually under a fair amount of stress to begin with, I prefer to teach the formula:

Height of item in inches x 27.8 (25.4)/Mils read = Distance to target in yards (meters)

The formula can be worked backward in training so that if the distance to the target is known we will know what the mil reading should be. This is handy for beginners learning to read mil dots. The formula for this is:

Size of item in inches x 27.8 (25.4)/Distance in yards (meters) = Mils

Knowing the sizes of items being measured is a matter of knowing your prospective area of operation and making a list of the sizes of standard items. Make sure you get both height and width of objects as you can mil both dimensions but the largest dimension mathematically will usually give the most accurate answer. Military snipers should have sizes of enemy vehicles, enemy weapons, average heights of soldiers, etc. An LE sniper should have sizes of traffic signs, bricks, license plates, etc. So carry a tape measure and a notebook with you and prepare to have people look at you funny as you measure curbs, traffic lights, mailboxes and other commonly found objects in your area of operation.

So as you can see the mil relation formula shouldn't scare anyone off. As a matter of fact there are ways to make the use of the formula even easier. Many data books such as the TRGT data book and others have charts developed using computer spreadsheets that allow the shooter to find the target size and the mil reading on the chart and it gives the shooter the distance without any hate or discontent. You can even make your own using the above formulas if you know how to use a spreadsheet such as MS Excel.

The EASIEST way to deal with this formula is to get yourself a The Mil Dot Master. This handy slide-rule type device does the calculations for the mil relation formula, corrects for target size when viewed at angles, corrects for slope, gives MOA/mil/in equivalence and even predicts the future. (You have to bury some chicken bones and some other stuff to get the last feature).




Reticle Focus
The first thing we will talk about is reticle focus. In order for the sniper to obtain precise mil readings the reticle must be properly focused. If the reticle is out of focus, the reticle will appear fuzzy and go in and out of focus as the eye attempts to zero in on it. Not only will mil readings be difficult to obtain but the sniper will also suffer eye fatigue over long periods behind the scope as the muscles of the eye attempt to maintain focus. Steps for focusing a scope's reticle are:
Look at a distant object (about 300 yards) and allow your eyes to become focused on it.
Quickly look through the scope at the sky or a blank wall and check to see if the reticle is immediately sharp and crisp. If it is, then no further adjustment is needed.
If your eye has to re-focus AT ALL on the reticle then proceed.
Grasp the eyepiece and back it away from the lock-ring. Turn the eyepiece several turns so as to move at least 1/8". It will take this much change to achieve any measurable effect on the focus. Then repeat step one.
If the image is better, continue to turn the eyepiece in the same direction. If it is worse, turn the eyepiece the other way and repeat the previous steps until the image of the reticle is sharp and crisp immediately upon looking into the scope.
Do this several times. Taking the focus past the point of best focus and back again will help to ensure you have the clearest setting. Then lock up the eyepiece by screwing the lock-ring back to the eyepiece.
Some scopes feature a quick-adjust eyepiece and therefore simplify this operation




Target/Objective Focus
One area that is often overlooked when ranging with mil dots is target focus. If the target is out of focus it will either read slightly larger or smaller than it should when properly focused.

There have been many occasions while working as an instructor where I have found students do worse on ranging with mil dots than with binoculars or even the naked eye. Most of the time this ceases to be a problem after they begin ensuring that both the objective and the reticle are sharply focused





Ambient Light Conditions
As with all other methods of range estimation that uses the sniper's eyes, the nature of the ambient light conditions can affect the sniper's ability to obtain an accurate mil reading. Effects such as glare, mirage, haze/fog can obscure the target or alter how the sniper sees the edges of the target which will all cause inaccurate readings. In order to deal with this, a sniper must practice obtaining mil readings in all weather conditions and take notes as to corrections that he must make in those conditions. For example a sniper knows that in foggy conditions he needs to add .1 mil to his mil readings or in bright sunny conditions he has to subtract .1 mil on light colored targets due to glare. So practice obtaining distances with your scope in all conditions and confirm distances with a laser range finder. Keep notes as to how different light conditions alter your mil readings.

Hang on a minute!! Use a laser range finder to confirm distances? You are probably asking, "Then why the hell worry about mil dots if I have a laser range finder?" Well, have you ever had batteries die on you or have a piece of electronics go belly up? Also, have you heard of laser detectors? Besides, mildot reticles have other uses besides ranging. OK, now that we've cleared that up I'll continue.

OK, let's look at what we have up to this point. We've learned that we have to make sure our reticle and target are in focus. No problem here as we should have these items under control anyway. We've had to either learn a simple formula or buy a The Mil Dot Master. No big deal here either. All we are left with now is to figure out how to measure objects with the reticle. Let's see if there are any major obstacles here.



Reading the Dots

The precision tactical shooter must be able to obtain accurate mil readings to the tenth of a mil. This is where it is important to know the sub-tensions on your reticle. For example, I know in my Leupold 3.5 x 10 M3 LR with the USMC stamped wire reticle pattern, the dots themselves are .25 mils and the posts are 1 mil wide when the scope is at maximum magnification (more on this in a minute). In Leupold scopes with round, dot-etched glass reticles the dots are .22 mils in diameter and the posts are .5 mils wide. This enables me to break the reticle down as in the illustrations above left.

The importance of being precise on your readings becomes evident when working at long range. For example, if a 40-inch target (the size of a kneeling man) is incorrectly measured at 1.5 mils it would range out to 740 yards where if the correct reading were 1.6 mils it would actually be at 693 yards. Assuming there is 5 MOA drop with a .308 between 700 and 800 yards you could be dialing on around 2 MOA too much elevation. At 700 yards that is 14 inches and may put you over the target depending on your aiming area. So here are some helpful tips when measuring a target.
Have a steady rest for your rifle. Just as steady as when you are firing. Lay the rifle on its side if you have to.
Use a post for one end of the measuring scale if possible. This will give you a clear point for one end of your measurement.
Make sure the target/reticle are focused.
Practice obtaining mil readings on targets at known distance. Using the formula given above determine how many mils a target should read then work on it until you can see that measurement in the scope.



Variable Power Scopes
My last tip there brings up an interesting point in regards to variable power scopes with mil dot reticles. Most American variable power scopes do not magnify the reticle along with the target. In other words the reticle remains the same size as the target image zooms. This can wreak havoc if you try to measure a target at the wrong magnification, as the dots will only equal 1 milliradian at one magnification setting. Knowing what magnification setting your scope is set up to use the dots on is CRITICAL to getting accurate readings. Most scopes are set up to use their highest power setting and some have an index mark on the power ring. One problem I've noted with the variable power scopes is that the setting that the factory tells you to use can often be off a bit. I've had students be constantly off on readings by 1 or 2 tenths and get flustered as hell. Some of this can be due to out of focus reticles but many of them figure out that the index mark is off a hair. By using the barber pole I mentioned earl lier, you can find the EXACT point where the mil dots subtend precisely 1 mil. As a side note you can also find the point where the dots equal 2 mils and other readings




Other uses of the Mil Dot Reticle
I think we've pretty much exhausted material on the mil dot reticle as a ranging tool. I will now go into its other uses in establishing alternate aiming points for moving targets, elevation/windage hold-offs and quick follow-up shots. As with any tool in our toolbox, the more we know about it the better off we are. If I can use a piece of gear for more than one purpose it becomes more valuable than a highly specialized piece of gear such as a laser range finder. (Although lasers make nice paperweights and Frisbees when their batteries die or the light conditions render them useless.) These other uses are just as valuable as the primary range finding purpose of the mil dot reticle.



Other uses of the Mil Dot Reticle
I think we've pretty much exhausted material on the mil dot reticle as a ranging tool. I will now go into its other uses in establishing alternate aiming points for moving targets, elevation/windage hold-offs and quick follow-up shots. As with any tool in our toolbox, the more we know about it the better off we are. If I can use a piece of gear for more than one purpose it becomes more valuable than a highly specialized piece of gear such as a laser range finder. (Although lasers make nice paperweights and Frisbees when their batteries die or the light conditions render them useless.) These other uses are just as valuable as the primary range finding purpose of the mil dot reticle.


Leads for Moving Targets
When a shooter is training on moving targets he should be taught to calculate leads for moving targets knowing the targets speed, time of flight of the bullet and the targets direction of movement. The formula is:

Time of flight (sec) x Speed of target (fps) = Lead from center-mass in feet
(full value lead)

Since it is easiest to establish a lead from a target's leading edge and we want a lead in mils we will then use the formula:

(Lead in feet x 12) ? 6
(Range x .01) x 3.4

We can now use our mil dot reticle to hold off instead of having to guess at target widths and other not-so accurate methods. This formula is a bit ungainly to use in tactical situations, and it doesn't take into account different shooters' reaction times, but it should be used in training to determine starting leads when engaging live fire moving targets. The shooter then fine tunes his leads and writes them in his data book.




Elevation/Windage Hold-Offs
Mil dot reticles can also be used for alternate aiming points for elevation and windage holds, as there are often situations where a sniper may not have time to dial on his elevation and sight settings. Snipers often have to deal with targets that appear unexpectedly, multiple targets at different distances, gusting winds of varying direction and the thing we all don't want to think about, a miss or an insufficient hit. In these situations the shooter often doesn't have time to deal with turret caps, 1/4 MOA target turrets, or in the case of the miss or insufficient hit, changing the sights. In these occasions, WHEN EXTREME PRECISION IS NOT A REQUIREMENT, it is better to establish an alternate aiming point with the mil dot reticle and hit the target



Windage Hold-Offs
Mil dot reticles can also be used for alternate aiming points for elevation and windage holds, as there are often situations where a sniper may not have time to dial on his elevation and sight settings. Snipers often have to deal with targets that appear unexpectedly, multiple targets at different distances, gusting winds of varying direction and the thing we all don't want to think about, a miss or an insufficient hit. In these situations the shooter often doesn't have time to deal with turret caps, 1/4 MOA target turrets, or in the case of the miss or insufficient hit, changing the sights. In these occasions, WHEN EXTREME PRECISION IS NOT A REQUIREMENT, it is better to establish an alternate aiming point with the mil dot reticle and hit the target.



Elevation Hold-Offs

Now let's talk about elevation hold-offs. In order for us to use a mil dot reticle for elevation holds we have to determine from what sight setting we will be holding off from. In most situations this will mean that we will leave a certain sight setting on the rifle when not set for a specific target. This is very similar to the military battle-sight zero concept where an M16A2 is zeroed for 300 meters, which allows the rifleman to engage targets from 0-325 meters by just aiming center mass. In US Army doctrine with the M24 sniper weapon system and M118LR ammunition (175 gr. Sierra BTHP @ 2600 fps) the sniper leaves his 500m zero on the scope with zero windage. Then by using the elevation holds in the chart below, he can get rounds on target without taking the time to change his elevation setting. Another use for mil dots is when we have to engage multiple targets at different distances and we have time to set it up. We know that if we have to engage a target at 600 yards then drop down to 300 yards and dr op another one all we have to do is calculate the elevation difference between 300 and 600 yards then dial on the elevation for 600 and hold low for the 300 yard shot. In this case I know that there is 7.5 MOA difference between the 600 and 300 yard shot. So after engaging the 600 yard target with my 600 yard sight setting, since it is the more difficult shot, I will then hold 2 mils under the 300 yard target and engage it. The .5 MOA error (1.5 inches at 300 yards) in hold is nothing to worry about in MOST situations.


Follow-up Shots
The last thing I will talk about in regards to the mil dot reticle is its usefulness when firing rapid follow-up shots when a quick correction in elevation or windage is required. In these situations a follow-up shot is needed quickly! If the first shot was a miss, it won't take the target long to figure out what is going on. If he is trained or just real smart, as soon as he hears the crack of the round or some result of its impact he is gonna move. But in many situations the target won't move due to ambient noise masking the shot or just plain stupidity as in the case of the FBI field SWAT snipers that got off 3 shots at a hostage taker without the perp figuring out what was going on. (In this case the sniper's shots were hitting a low wall in front of the rifle that the sniper didn't know was in the way. The third shot hit home after the sniper raised his position.)

In the case of a well fired shot that missed or was off-center, the observer can give the sniper an alternate aiming point using the mil dots as with windage holds. If the shot was at 200 yards and it was 4 inches (2 MOA) low, the observer tells the sniper to hold 2/3 mil high and fire again. This is all assuming of course that the sniper calls the first shot a good shot. If he called the shot low, then the sniper should fire center again and pay attention to the fundamentals this time.

And you thought that all mil dots were for was range estimation, didn't you?

I hope this information has shown you that mil dots are a valuable aid for the precision tactical shooter/sniper. It may seem like a lot of information at first but as you absorb this stuff remember that much of it can be simplified with aids like cheat sheets, crib notes and through the use of devices like the The Mil Dot Master even us Neanderthals can handle mil dots. Those that can't or refuse to use them are missing out on a valuable tool. But that's OK. Those batteries in that laser are probably OK.


The largest benefit to using a mil reticle is that you can use the reticle like a tape measure. Let’s say that you are engaging different targets and you reach a target that is 865 yards away. You then fire at a man size target and the splash indicates that you hit the abdomen area, but you were aiming for center mass. You can use the reticle to measure how far you missed. In this case 2 ½ mils. Your adjustment would be 25 clicks, since each click is .10 mrad. Now that you have assessed your DOPE you are ready to re-engage and hit the intended area.

A common misconception is that MOA and Mil are linear measurements. They are not.
MOA (minute of angle) is an angular measurement and so is (MIL) miliradian. It is a coincidence that when MOA is converted into a linear measurement that it subtends 1.047 inches at 100 yards. That is so close to 1” that most people consider it to be 1” at 100 yards. So a scope with .25 MOA adjustments translates to each click moving the reticle .25 of an inch at 100 yards.
However, the fact that 0.1 mrad is 1cm at 100 meters is most certainly not a coincidence. That is most certainly intended that way by design and comes out of the very definition of the angular measure of a radian and of the method behind the metric system. That is the beauty of the metric system: you can start with very few basic unitless measures and scale everything from there.

1 radian is simply an angle where the subtended arc is equal to the radius. 1mrad is 0.001 of a radian, so 1mrad is an angle where the subtended arc is one thousandth of the radius, i.e. if an object at a certain distance from you subtends exactly 1 mrad, then the size of that object in linear units is almost exactly one thousandth of a distance between you and that object. What linear units you happen to use makes no difference. It will work with any of them.

It is simplest to use with metric linear units because of the base10 scaling, of course.

With moderately retarded measurement systems we use for traditional reasons (like inches/feet/yards for linear units and degrees for angular units), translation between angular and linear measurements is a lot more involved.

Hence, between MOA and mrad, for as long as all you need to do is trajectory compensation, it does not matter what you use. However, once range finding is thrown into the mix, mrads are usually a simpler and more precise way to go.

If you can make your brain stop having to apply a linear measurement to your angular adjustments it is quite a bit easier to use a mil scope. You do this by using the reticle as a ruler to adjust for how much you missed the target. Say you are shooting 864 yards and you miss low, if you can see how much you missed then you put the reticle on where you were aiming and count how many mils it is to where your shot actually went. If it was 2.5 mils, then you just turn your elevation 2.5 mils in the direction you missed. It does not matter how far or how close you are shooting because it is an angular measurement. Mix matched scopes will soon be a thing of the past as it makes no sense to combine the two in one scope. All scopes with mil based reticles should have mil based clicks, I think in five years mil scopes with moa adjustments will be obsolete.

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Skylar Mac] #3714255 11/01/12 08:41 PM
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Excellent post! This should be sticky'd...


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: BobG] #3714367 11/01/12 09:16 PM
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Second the sticky


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: captcrunch227] #3714609 11/01/12 10:15 PM
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Good info Skylar


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Drop Tine] #3716686 11/02/12 04:24 PM
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sticky please


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Skylar Mac] #3744390 11/11/12 03:59 AM
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Out freeking standing!

Great post!

Thanks

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: JimTX] #3783314 11/24/12 03:47 PM
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Love this topic!!! Thanks Skylar!!!

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Tundra212] #3802329 11/30/12 02:04 PM
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Thank you!!!

I've read a lot about mil-dots and never fully understood it.
This helped more than all of them put together.

I used a simple method as each caliber has different trajectory.
I generally sight in at 100, then when I shoot 200 or 300, I hold on center, shoot a couple of rounds, then put the crosshair back on center and see where the holes fall on the mil-dot scale and note it for that rifle.
Works for me and been working for years.
Lots of dead hogs agree with the method.


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Vern1] #3829528 12/09/12 03:17 PM
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now i know why i bought range finders toooo many numbers for me

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: killen] #3836330 12/11/12 01:50 PM
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It is a lot of numbers but if you do it, not just at a desk but live in the field, you will get the hang of it and make you a better long range marksman. I generally don't shoot past 300 yards. After that you're pretty safe from me.


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: passthru] #3836341 12/11/12 01:53 PM
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I use a rangefinder as well. I don't feel that milling works that well at distance in the field. You have to know the exact size of your target if you're out around 800 yards or so.

I do however use it for wind holds, and corrections as well as movers.


FFP and Movers are a match made in heaven.


Here is the reticle I use. That's 1010 yards.


Last edited by dieselgeek; 12/11/12 01:55 PM.
Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: passthru] #3876939 12/23/12 11:22 AM
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After I learned how to MIL and purchased and obtained a true MIL scoe (trust me they aren't all accurate) I started carrying measuring tape and measured everything I can. I do mean everything.

Great write up!!!

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: durga] #3920861 01/06/13 04:06 AM
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nice

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: TxBassAssassin] #3933472 01/09/13 04:43 PM
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Yep, I converted to mil reticles and matching turrets and FFP for precision rifles a few years ago.

So much easier..
I am going hunting tomorrow with my 308 and a Kahles K312II

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: ccoker] #3956246 01/15/13 09:14 PM
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Very awesome article. thanks.


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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: centurion2000] #3984515 01/23/13 06:22 PM
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Wow, that is a lot of information. Very helpful but man that's a lot of math.... Why is my nose bleeding?

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: ChipChipperson45] #4002665 01/29/13 01:33 AM
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Thank you sir. You just made my "top ten best posts ever" list. Yaaaaaaaallriiight!

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Gacman] #4008913 01/30/13 08:38 PM
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One of my wealthy Buddies who shoots at the Club just got back from an extensive hunt into BC and all over the NW U.S.. One of the guys he hunted w/was an ret'd Engineer who had a $5k rifle w/great scope w/mil dots and he had the drop charts ect.and range finders ect..257 Weatherby I think..Said the guide found a
trophy Bull Elk at 750yds..and the hunter (who professed ability) shot 18 times from a rest before hitting it in the buns...Only had 2 bullets left when it came time to get closer and try to retrieve it..Guide and He were both wrong...Targets and hunting are two different games..and at that range a solid copper projectile may not even open...I used to watch a lot of guys who overused tech. instead of Common Sense and not realizing they were not on a bench..DD

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Don Dial] #4020970 02/04/13 01:44 AM
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Sure am glad i dont need one of those to do the type of hunting i do. Whitetail, hogs, varmints all die when in the crooshairs of my cheap scopes. I have a headache after reading that. Great post for those interested though.

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: gator1332] #4021311 02/04/13 03:38 AM
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Good info!

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: namag82] #4039381 02/10/13 04:09 AM
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As an engineer, I salute your thorough post. Well done sir. Next time I hear a grade school student say "we'll never need to know trigonometry/algebra/calculus/etc...", my new response will be "yes you do, so you can sight your rifle in properly".

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: durga] #4176438 04/09/13 03:35 AM
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Tag

Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: durga] #4387640 07/14/13 12:18 PM
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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: durga] #4388769 07/14/13 09:34 PM
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great info Skylar, thanks for the post!





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Re: How to get the most out of the Mil-Dot reticle. [Re: Hooligan] #4388842 07/14/13 10:11 PM
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