Retiring(it’s for sale) my 99 Chevy 3500(240000 miles) and converting my just bought 2002 GMC 1500HD(157000 miles) to my new hunting/lease work truck.
***I’m wanting some feedback on toolboxes.***
I’ve already got a bed rail/headache rack to put on. Then the overhead rack with raising pole will transfer from the old to the new along with winch system, front bumper, road feeder, tires/wheels and everything else thats not tied down.
I just bought from a forum member a used high end low profile toolbox with drawers that goes in the bed with drawers that slide out.

—-My QUESTION is the other tool boxes. Brute makes some unique tool boxes that I haven’t seen before. I’m wondering if y’all know anything about them or any similar.
One for each side that has a compartment you access from top but the key is a drawer system that you pull out the back,
Another one goes across the bed behind the cab that has drawers that come out either side.
All of these boxes are different from a “regular” truck box cause stuffs not all on top of each other so everything is accessible. No one seems to have them in stock so I can see them in person.
IM WANTING FEEDBACK ON THESE TYPE BOXES WITH DRAWERS.
With any luck I’ll update as the conversion takes place.

This is the other thread I had in OT section that I used for advice on buying the 2002 GMC. It offers background on how and why I got to this point.
https://texashuntingforum.com/forum...002-gmc-3-4-ton-4x4-any-good#Post8991101

I didn’t figure this thread would get a lot of action but zero in 3 days is pretty bad. I assume this section of forum doesn’t get looked at much.

We were in heavier truck equipment, so we didn't do much in the way of toolboxes. Aluminum is neat when new, but the welds don't hold like steel and the aluminum is gonna oxidize on you. With any box, dust will be your enemy and you're gonna have to keep the slides lubed with lithium spray; that gets messy too. As far as simple, steel, Texas-made boxes, I always went with Rawson-Koenig, now RK. But, I know Tom Rawson personally, so I'm obviously biased.

You've fine-tuned your rig over the years. I'm sure you're gonna figure out what works best.

Aluminum boxes won’t hold up to heavy use, Creek has given the correct information.

Creek, very good info. Appreciate you spelling that out. I have a lot of tools but I really wouldnt classify my use as heavy. It’s very part time use, so not sure how that would factor in.
I really do like the apparent efficiency and convenience of those drawers…….

68, and Creek, thanks for yalls opinions on aluminum "not holding up to heavy use". My thoughts about tool boxes was more about the design than aluminum vs metal, so now yall got me wondering. After thinking about my use, I really dont think it would be classified as "heavy use" at all as compared to a regular construction type work truck. Compared to a "normal" hunting lease truck I use it a lot but its not like a work truck that is used every day of the year. Yes, the weight of the tools is in the boxes all the time but Im not opening those boxes and slamming tools in them numerous times a day every day. Im in that truck on the lease a little over 100 days a year and about half that is hunting and not work.
I have no problem with metal but I dont see where anyone makes them in the design I like. I guess Im still leaning towards the boxes I showed above but Im hoping I can get more feedback. Not getting much action on the thread so Im totally fine making decisions without more feedback. Im just surprised Im not hearing more from all the macho hardworking guys on here about a topic like this.

finding what features you want is the first big hurdle, then finding one in stock is the next.

I like the full bed with drawers style but I use a gooseneck too often to even consider that type. as a lease truck, you might not have that issue. I would also be a bit concerned with moisture proof, or blood wicking down into the tool compartments. they may be sealed against that though?

all three of those you listed above, I like them all for various reasons.

I have a several different tool boxes in my truck for various things. I have a large chest type across the bed that I've had in my last 4 trucks. It's the catch all with larger tools, jumper cables, various lubricants, tape, boomers, tarps, etc.. sets on the truck bed and lid is a little higher than the bed rails.

I have a side mount over the fender that has straps, ropes, etc.

then I have a 5 drawer mounted on the bed floor over to the side that has a wide variety of hand tools, wrenches, screwdrivers, hammers, etc. This design is great the but roller tracks are the weak link.
Like This

even though you say you won't be using heavily, I have found out over the miles of both highway and offroad use, the hinges and slides/roller tracks just don't last. there is a lot of bouncing and vibration that just wears on things.

PMK, very informative comments. Its obvious you were paying attention and I appreciate that.
I got a good deal on a used box(from trusted forum member) that fits in the bed and drawers slide out the back. It was a real high end model when it was new and Im confident it will be good. No gooseneck for me so good there.
I like some things about the 5 drawer you have but I dont think it works for my use.
Real good comments on the hinges/slides/rollers wearing out with my type use and that has been my main concern.
Thanks again for the good feedback.

FR, I have the Decked system in my Ford Tremor and absolutely love it. I use it daily between my farm, work and ,my deer leases. It says that it has a heavy load capacity on top all, but I hav never had more than about 1/2 ton on it. It's very convenient to keep from climbing in and out of the bed all the time does a really good job of keeping dust and rain off the tools as well.

Big8, thanks for the comment on the decked type system. I have already bought a similar system like Decked thats made by TruckVault but its not in my truck yet. I got a good deal on a used one from a trusted forum member. Ive heard good stuff on the Decked. The TruckVault is way way more expensive(when new) so we will see.
Its supposed to carry a lot of weight on top but I wont ever have much on it. The convenience Im anticipating will be enjoyed by me.

I got my toolboxes in. The design makes them very efficient to be able to get to everything without stacking stuff on top of one another. The side boxes aren’t huge but are much bigger than most side boxes you see and we will wait and see what other box I may need across back of cab. The side boxes will sit further out on the bottom box than pic shows. I will find out if they are heavy duty enough. The black box sits in bed and drawers pull out and holds a lot.
The old and new hunting trucks are both at fabricator along with boxes so ready for the conversion to start.

Looking good! I can only imagine seeing what all is in your toolboxes! You could probably build a house with what is in them -

Little progress report on the conversion.
The headache rack and bed rail had to be cut down and it is on now. There are supports that go to the bed to keep weight off the bed rail itself.
The truck vault drawer boxes are in the bed and good to go.
The two side boxes are in place but not attached yet. A used box across back is just laying there and jury out if that’s one I’ll use.
Next step is to cut big overhead rack off old truck. It won’t fit exactly but my guy can make anything work.
More to go after that but it’s made a big first step.

Another progress update.
Got the big rack off the old truck along with the winch.





May be hard to see but supports for the bed rail in each corner.
Old stock bumper off new truck and he’s started to beef up a way to attach winch up under out of way of trailer hitch that will also attach to the new “bumper”/frame.

Another progress report.
Got the big rack off the old and onto the new. Not an exact fit but he made it work.
Built up some heavy stuff off the frame to attach the winch and trailer hitch to. I love the way the winch is recessed back outa the way yet still functions there or just pull a pin and it slides out. Had to lower the hitch a little to make room.
Home made bumper to come.

I would be interested to see how you did the electrical disconnect on the winch. I have one I want to add to my RTV on a receiver mount so I can switch between front and rear when needed.

You can see it in the last pic.

kinda, sorta ... I am guessing that there is a pre-wired harness that pigtail coming off the winch connects to ... wondering how difficult it would be to have 2 harnesses (front & rear) wired in to the vehicle. does it go directly to the battery or thru a switch? where to buy the switch or how heavy duty.

Kinda sorta for me too. I don’t do stuff like this myself but I think it’s real basic. One of those connectors is wired coming off winch. Just connect the other connector to it and those wires run up to battery.
Do the same thing again at the front if you want to hook up either way. “As far as I know” both sets of wires hook to the battery without a switch.
I also have a nifty wiring hookup in case I need a winch on truck without wiring. You can also use it on a winch without a truck and just a loose battery. It’s just like battery cables on one end and the winch connector on another. I guess you could use it all the time and not have wiring wired in. You can also jump start a car from the winch connector and not direct to batttery.

thanks! I guess there is a switch or remote associated with the winch to operate?

how heavy (gauge) wire was used on your harness?

Not sure the gauge. I’m sure it’s pretty standard per the size of the winch and Google would be your friend.
The ones I’ve seen come with about a 10’ cord that plugs into winch and it has a forward and reverse toggle switch.
I HIGHLY recommend a “remote” that will allow you to get further away when needed.

Almost finished. Doesn’t seem like many are interested in my project but I like having a record of what’s been done so I’ll keep posting.
The front “bumper” my guy made from scratch. Road feeder(or winch) will go in receiver hitch and wiring for both to come. The two compartments to either side can hold various things but I will usually have a bag of corn in each to replenish the road feeder. I really like the hollow bumper with the little hinged door that I can put tposts in. The tray type compartment across the middle will likely hold chains or misc stuff.




Next just shows the rear bumper. He made that from scratch. It doesn’t go all the way across cause the winch has to be able to come out if moved to front. What’s not shown is some elaborate beefed up stuff that attaches to the frame and is what the bumper and the winch and trailer hitch assembly is all mounted to. I think it’s genius how he designed the winch to be recessed out of way while allowing use of it and trailer hitch. It’ll be nice to have a bumper I can stand on in back and partial side.



About all the next pics shows that I haven’t already talked about is the water jug. It’s higher than in my old truck so I can almost take a shower under it. Also shows the pvc kinda thingy that I’ll put long stuff in like pry bars etc. And the cradle/hook things along side of rack I will always have a collapsible tripod laying in.



Next is just the ladder. One on each side to be able to get up on top. Extra wide step at bottom to easily stand on to get stuff outa tool box across back. That box sits higher cause of the in bed low profile box all way across bottom of bed.



Last, for now, is just a couple covey holes to put whatever long skinny stuff I have like rebar or pvc etc. Just utilizing otherwise dead space created by a gap between bottom of side boxes and bed rail. Even has a little hinged door to keep stuff in. I guess I ran outa room so gotta click on link to see last pic.

[img]https://texashuntingforum.com/forum...93bd507_0a95_4415_8422_cad91bccbb5a.jpeg[/img]

I like this a lot, looking great!

I am interested. Drawers full yet?

all I can say is you are very serious about your lease truck - lots of great ideas on here and well planned - which is no surprise

Thanks guys. I’m excited about it and proud of it. A lot of it is I love it when a plan comes together.
As some have said/implied, this is not my first rodeo. This is the third generation and I’ve tweaked it over time and know what I want/need and don’t want/need.
Hud, tool boxes still empty at this point. We will soon see how much it sags under full load.

Looks like you will be equipped for just about any contingencies.

The truck is pretty much finished. I weighed the whole thing and it is very heavy.
The factory truck weighs 5800#s(I weighed it and it matches specs.)
Now after all the added stuff I weighed it again at 8400#s.
I will add another 600# or so and then with me inside it will be up to about 9200# on an everyday basis.
The max its rated for is 8600#(GVWR.) Ive been told the ratings in reality have a pretty big cushion. So Ive added 3400# which is 600# over the max rating.
My mechanic looked at it and says it doesnt sit down much at all so we have not yet beefed up the suspension in any way. He said if I did he would put heavy duty shocks, likely air shocks, or maybe air bags or an extra spring.
It rides fine but it feels like its pulling a trailer at all times.
Consider its for ranch road type use 95% of time and tell me if yall think I am good to go or if the weight will be an issue.

That thing is a war wagon...I like it, it'll be as handy as a pocket on a shirt. I'd leave it as is unless I felt like it needed something and like your guy...I do heavier shocks. I've had bags and hated them, seemed like as soon as they went on, the ride quality went down exponentially.

I’d add a leaf spring and heavier shocks.

Stay outta the mud

changing Free’s handle to mad max!

Now thats a ranch truck for sure

I too would get a spring shop to look at it.

'Reminds me of the guys that would come in and want to buy a service body. We'd have to tell them that they didn't have enough truck. They'd always reply "Oh, it's a HEAVY half-ton."

Do you leave it at your lease? Just curious -

Yep, it stays out there all the time. Im not quite through tweaking it and then Ill soon take it that way.

As Ive said several times, Im concerned its not enough truck for the weight Ive put on it. Im beyond "all in" at this point so we will see.
It does "sit down" more than I thought.
Ill take all the advice I can get on how to help out the suspension.

At least you have an open mind about it. So, here goes.
First, the 8600 lb rating does NOT have a cushion. That is the Maximum rating set by the manufacturer. Beefing up the suspension will not change that rating/carrying capacity. You have other things to consider. What about brakes? What about steering? I won't bore you with details here but if it were me, I would fill it with fuel and whatever else you will carry and head to a scale. Sit in the truck while its weighed. Front axle, rear axle and total. Then you have an accurate weight and will know what needs to go. If you run it on the hwy like this and are in an accident the first thing a lawyer is going to do is have the truck weighed. Then your A$$ is grass and he is the lawnmower!
I don't mean to come across as a know it all in this regard but that is a way of life.
Frio

I appreciate that, Frio. I have already weighed it, as I stated. For what its worth, its stays on the deer lease at all times so Im not too worried about the brakes and steering and lawyers. I am open minded so if anyone else wants to tell me I should worry then Im listening.
I know beefing up the suspension wont help the "rating" but Im hoping it will keep something from breaking or wearing out.
Legalities aside, whats the worse thing and likely thing that can happen if the weight is "too much"(serious question)?

Probably the worse thing would be frame failure. It could be gradual where you can see it getting worse over time or could be catastrophic and leave you at the back or the ranch wondering how in the heck you will get all that scrap metal off your property.

Any additional consideration for tires? Is the transmission solid enough for the additional weight? Going to be quite a rig with lots of tools.

Any additional consideration for tires? Is the transmission solid enough for the additional weight? Going to be quite a rig with lots of tools.

Tires... they are quality and its on ranch road only and some gravel county roads. If the worse problem I have is a flat then Im not worried.
Transmission.... Ive been told this transmission is a very good one. This particular truck has been lightly used and cared for so I dont foresee an issue.

What are the chances of frame failure?
What other mechanical issues can be caused by exceeding the payload capacity by 7%? Bearings, shocks, control arms, springs????

Your low speed application should be just fine. The most likely issue will be carbon buildup. Don’t borrow trouble.

Glad youre paying attention, Hud. Low speed for sure. Dont know anything about carbon build up-gotta talk to my mechanic about that before I take it out of civilization. Sounds like I need to put the petal to the metal sometimes.

adding air shocks or air bags will level it out but also could make the ride much harsher on rough roads. I would go with heavier spring(s) or progressive springs. with that said, if you are riding on the last spring (typically an overload spring), your ride will be pretty harsh as well.

for your use as a ranch truck only, I think you will be fine as long as you don't get in a rush over the rough spots.

I always feel like your pretty level headed straight shooter, but hunting trucks must be your crazy


I would t bat an eye at the weight… but like Hud said stay out of the mud

Red, Im level headed about lots of stuff. But anything deer hunting is my crazy.
PMK, thanks for more good info.
PMK, Red, Hud, Judd and others seem to be saying I could do this or that but "you will probably be ok doing nothing" considering my ranch road use and low speed. I guess Im leaning that way but still scratching my head.

Is the truck a 2500 or 2500HD?

Neither. Its called a 1500HD. I did research and asked on here about what that was. Long story, but everyone in the know said its almost exactly the same as a 2500. 8 lugs and appears to be same suspension, trans and engine. I read that naming it different had something to do with marketing and the fact those few years were the first to have the crew cab.

Never look back and...get to work!

Yep, onward & ever forward.

What Im hearing is some are tired of my thread and my suspension indecision... Understandable.
Im definitely not looking back and I must go forward because Im in way too deep.
Im down to two choices to wrap up this project.
1. Leave it like it is and just hope the suspension handles the overload. If something wears out or breaks just fix it at that time.
2. Take preventative measures to help out the suspension to handle the overload.

Unless some of yall chime in then Im about done researching options to help with the overload. Ive narrowed down my choices to the following.
a. Replace springs with heavy duty springs for about 1200.
b. Add "Super Springs" to existing for about 1200.
c. Replace shocks with heavy duty shocks for about 500.
The suspension specialty shops and mechanics all told me none of those options will actually help much to keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner. They will only help with things like leveling it out, stabilizing the load and smoothing out the ride.
Break downs are my only concern, so I may just take it out there and see what happens.
For now, its back at the fabricator getting some more tweaking done....

"They will only help with things like leveling it out, stabilizing the load and smoothing out the ride." - all of these benefits will help to "keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner."

It would be interesting to know what the axle weights are.

From online looking, the rear GAWR is 6000 and front 4400, I think you will be fine.

Hold my beer and watch this

Hud, this is why I pay all yall consultants the big bucks. I was told that it will help a little but not much.


Red, I never heard of GAWR but I never heard of GVWR till recent either. Im not sure what the 6000/4400 means to my decision but sounds good that you think its a hedge in my favor.

For what its worth, I weighed my old truck after I stripped it down and did some reverse math to figure out it used to be over the max rating for it as well. It survived 7 years of use/abuse, as Im anticipating with this new one(likely rougher) and I never had any suspension issues.

I took it back to fab guy for what may be the final tweaking so maybe final pics.

I realized it’s really hard to get to anything over the tool boxes and in the bed itself. So he added a step rail all along the side of truck. It can be easily taken off if I need to get to tire. Both sides match.



Considering the bed is completely full at all times I needed extra room for occasional lumber and such so I’m putting up on top of the upper rack. To keep them from falling off I raised the lip of rack up at front and put rail in very front. I’ll have strap across.


May be hard to believe but bed is so full there’s not even room for my big heavy tpost driver. He penned it to headache rack and it lays out of way along underside of rack.


He welded two female pipes in the front bumper compartments which will receive a male pipe inside. A few reasons. A seat on a pipe will fit inside so someone could sit up there. Can also just grab the pipe to hold on while riding up front a short distance. Also, without room in bed for even my bucket feeder, I can strap it to the pipe. One of these remote control mobile bucket feeders goes everywhere with me so I need easy access.






Put a receiver hitch on either bumper for a vice. Also one to keep it out of way when not in use. Upon further review, I’m likely gonna move both those a little.




Minor thing but a removable rod that holds rolls of mule tape, tie wire and my favorite item is a roll of electric type wire we use constantly like tie wire but with rubber(handy as duct tape.)

Outa room on other post so finishing here.
I’ve had this raisin pole or a version for a few generations now. This latest tweak just makes it easier to raise when old and solo. I used to have to walk the pole up the cat walk which worked fine till I got older. It’s still easy to walk it up with a second guy or a stronger guy. With this tweak one older guy can easily use the winch to raise entire apparatus into position, then use winch as normal to raise stands etc.

Air tank in back bumper? Small grill that slides in reciever hitch for when you get hungry out in field.

GAWR - gross axle weight rating, max weight the axle can hold, which probably has a safety margin in there. 6000 lb rear 4400 front.

Cos, I’ve already got an air compressor in the big tool box that’s wired to the battery. It’s got a long hose but can be taken out as needed. If I’m hungry in the field, I’ve already got a sandwich. I hate to cook.

Thanks, Red, but I figured out what it stood for and "kinda" what that means. I just dont know how to apply that info to my situation. How do I compare those apples to my apples? I know what the truck weighs(9300) but I dont know how much of that weight is on the back axle and how much on front axle. My guess would be about 6000 on rear. Once again, Im close to, or over, the rating. It comes down to how much cushion in the ratings.
For what its worth, the suspension specialty place told me my factory springs(combined) are rated to 4050#. He said to replace with heavy duty would get me to 6600. I didnt know what those numbers meant to my situation and he didnt act like he knew either.

Whats really frustrating me is I keep getting different opinions from everyone I ask. Besides yall, Ive asked several trusted mechanics and suspension specialists and no one agrees on a solution. I normally make quick decisions but that has cost me in the past on these trucks so Im really trying to put in my due diligence, but to no avail.
Enough people have told me to just leave it like it is that my gut says just do that. To confirm that, I keep asking what could go wrong if I do nothing? Im used to hunting trucks having front end parts break, so, is that the potential problem? Or would the rear springs break or the rear axle, or what? The experts have all told me that no beefing up of the suspension will keep things from breaking or wearing out sooner(or very little help). If thats the case, then why beef it up?

A lot of truck scales will be able to tell you the weight per axle.

I’m firmly in the roll with it camp.

agree on both points