I am thinking about changing my rest, how do you set it up correctly? and if I don't change it how do I check it to make sure it is set up right?

Here is a link for setting your center shot perfect.
http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/showpost.php?p=4642719&postcount=13

I know you are far from San Antonio but this may help others. Fred @ The Bow Shop in San Antonio set my rest. He put different tools (string level, -dont know what the others were called) on the arrow/bow string. He worked very patiently and carefully. He also installed the knock. I am assuming different rests mean a different knock location. Shot for a while and got a great grouping - for a rookie 2" @ 20yds after a few days. The paper test was perfect. After a couple months the pull string for the rest started getting memory and touching the flething. Took it to a different bow shop that was closer to my house. Just wanted to have them reposition pull string. They decided to do more than that. When I got it home missed target by 6 inches, blew up a high dollar arrow when it hit the fence. I took the bow back to Fred. He started from scratch and repositioned everything for $5.00. Took a few shots, adjusted sight, back on target. I recomend you find a shop that has good references and have them set it up. It will save a lot of time and agravation and the accuracy will then be all up to you.

Good advice just make sure it is a GOOD shop. Lots of people own a bow store but don't know shiz about aetting one up. My local shop just throws it on there.

Yeah I had it done at a shop 2 years ago but I thought I might could do it myself... but maybe not lol thanks dudes

cbump........Try paper tuning. Nothing beats it. Get you some butcher paper, or here at the offic I have Plotter paper for our blue prints. Staple it between two trees stakes or whatever, and stand a couple yards away from the paper, and shoot through it with your target just feet behind to catch the arrow. If the arrow keyholes I.E. fletch to the left your rest will need to move right, keyholes right then move your rest left, Your tear should resemble your fletching. If the arrow is flying true at close range then move back to around 10 yards and repeat. After 10 yards you should be golden. Paper tuning is as far as I am concerned the best way to achieve consistant flight. Your arrow has to leave the bow perfect. The only thing you can't control is the paradox or the arrow shaft wobbling throughout which is the result of all of the force imposed on the shaft from the rear. Kind of a Kinetic thing. You can minimize that by selecting the proper shaft for your draw length and draw weight. I'm no expert, but it works for me.

What a retard......I just realized I replied to the wrong post

Sorry guys.......

2000, Actually both together is the best. Paper tuning is good but doesn't show really really small errors because you are close to the paper, IMO. I usually have them paper tune my bow when I get it, then walk back tune on my own to really fine tune it.

IMO walkback tuning is the best way to tune a bow..........all the levels, lasers and gadgets are handy to git you close but nothin is as good for the finishing touches as walkback tuning

I am always open to new ways to tune my bow as we all know every little thing helps. I am going to look into this walk back tuning and try it for my self. Thanks cbump.

Your welcome! Let us know how it works for you.

Of course, if your bow is shooting good for you and lines up and down, I wouldn't mess with anything either.