This summer, I'm going to build a/some box stand/s. I'd appreciate any pics, advice, cost ideas, plans, anything.

Thanks & Gig 'Em.

I have built 2 4x6's that are 10' tall in the last 2 years. They are made with treated lumber with OSB siding and metal top. I have not put any sort of windows in them other than a piece of OSB that covers the hole when a blowing rain or snow hits. They have cost me about $125 each but I did do a lot of leg work to get the best prices on materials and paint.

Dad cooked up an idea to build a 'lifetime' stand a couple years back, so we set to it.

We framed the whole thing out of 1½" 14ga square tubing (fully welded) set it on a 3' tall base that he had from a previous stand, and skinned it with Hardiboard. It's got plexiglass windows, R-panel roof, is carpeted inside, has a propane heater and 2 comfy chairs. I think that later this spring he'll get around to putting a synthetic stucco finish on the outside for additional protection.

I'm not so sure on material cost, I just provided the labor to help Pop out. It's at his property, and will never be moved.

It sure is nice to hunt out of. This season he got a couple of coyotes and settled for a doe the last day of season for some meat.

If you want one that will last do as Gummi said. You will not lose you man card if you hunt out of a stand like Gummi.
You can get seconds at steel yards. They will have square tubing with one end split are a seam that did not get welded good. Try gooding to surplus yards and get a reg door, It bets trying to go through a 4 x4 opening. Put plex glass in it to keep the wind out of your eyes when the wind is blowing 20 miles in 20 deg weather.

I build blinds, furniture, etc out of used, duscarded privacy fence. For the floor. frame with the landscape post to any desired size with plywood. For top of blind, same size with the saved 2x3 boards from the fence. Use 2x4 at each corner for support. Build door and sides out of the fence boards. Cut window holes to desired size, 2 on each side,one at far end and small one on door. I use sliding plexiglass for windows. The windows slide in a grove at bottom that i router 1/4x1/4 into a fence board. Or you could use shiplap lumber. At top of window. router 1/2 the fence board or use piece of lattice wood to give you the gap. Leave enough slack so you can remove or replace the window. I like my openings rather small, 10 inches high x 3 boards wide, maybe 4 boards wide if 8 ft blind. I put curtain, old shirt or pants material sliding on wide to keep deer from skylighting you in blind. Since window is sliding horizantally, you only need to open several inches to shoot out. or open fully in hot weather. Use plywood for roof covered with tin. I set my blinds on cinderblocks so mud won't rotten em. Paint with oops paint, several coats. Make sure it is outdoor paint. Enjoy nature. Very little cost if you can find used tin and plywood.

El cheapskate

Thanks guys, I have some ideas about how I want to build it... I'm thinking treated plywood, 2 by 4's, and some 4 by 4's for legs, gonna look at plex glass windows, prolly not a heater, some spots for putting junk, some hanging places, maybe a little table in the corner for putting crap on and working on school for the weekends that I'm in (since i rarely see something lol), gonna carpet the floors and some of the other areas for quiet purposes, either tin or spare shingles for roof, I still may have some other ideas to look at... this may be what my friend and I do all summer, especially if we get good at it.....

Stoney -

If you want to use asphalt roofing (shingles), ask some of the roofing companies for some remnant roll roofing.

It won't have all the seams, and since a stand usually doesn't have much pitch, it will have fewer opportunities to let in water (less water = less chance for rot) rebuilding stands every couple of years gets to be a downer.

I built a 4 by 8 by 5 ft tall a couple of years ago that has it all. Angle iron framing, 3/4 inch treated plywood on roof and floor, 1/2 inch non treated plywood for sides. Carpet with roofing felt under. Roofing felt on roof covered by rolled roofing topped with steel sheets. Painted brown inside and out. And then, I had to use a front end loader to put it on a 16 ft trailer. I set it on some railroad ties to keep it off the ground to avoid termites. If I ever build another one like that, I'll build it in place. No way I ever want to try to move one like that again.

I(f you can't build them on site, build them where you can back a 5 x 10 tilt trailer to it. Use a come-a-long and pull em on to the trailer and 2 persons can unload at hunting site.That's if you get access to tilt trailer and come-a-long.

Shoot em in the head, keep the meat lead free.

For moving the stands, I outfit them with 2x6 'skis', and drag it into place using a tractor or quad. Screw a lag eye screw into each one, and use a tree strap, chain or yank strap to drag it into place. If you need to get it up into a truck or on a trailer, the skis also help to skid it into place much easier, and you can remove them once you have it in place

Once it's in place, I'll use patio blocks (like a 'cinder block' or CMU, they're 8"x16"x2", and retail for less than a buck) under each corner or wherever I need them.

I'll also use those blocks under my feeder legs to keep them from sinking in the mud, and it helps keep the metal from rusting and rotting for a long time.

That thing will last FOREVER!!! I cant even imagine how HEAVY it would be. You would need a crane to move it around and get it spotted into position.

I know a good guy for windows. PM me